Photographer profile: Drew Leiterman - And a bunch of new routes

Drew Leiterman has been visiting the PR area for a few seasons now, not just putting up lines in the Daniel's and Eldred valleys, but taking some amazing photos along the way. Here's a few images to get you stoked, and prove that yeah, the rumors you heard are probably true. There's a lot of rock. Follow Drew on Instragram for a ton of great photos @drewmagoo66

Elliot somewhere on The Dude Wall, Super Unknown,  in the immense Daniel's Valley

John enjoying the rain protection at the Cougar Den, West Main Buttress on a beauty 5.9 splitter. 

John on P4 of the new Christel Mushroom, Eldred Valley. 

Travis and Jamie lost in a sea of vert and featured granite on the Y.S.F Wall, West Main Buttress

Sport Climbing? A dyno? New stuff on the West Main Buttress

Elliot P2 Christel Mushroom

Evan throwing down on Middle School, V5/6 ish, Stillwater.

Notes from Drew:

"Christel Mushroom"  is a project on Carag Dur we are currently working on. Travis Foster, Elliot Vercoe, John Mcmahon and myself put a few weeks work on it in June, establishing, cleaning and trying to free 6 of the pitches ground up finding pitches up to 5.12. We left this project at the end of June to go into the DRV, we have plans to continue Christel Mushroom over the rest of this and next season.

The shot of Travis dynoing is "Unprotected Sex" 5.11- sport. 7 bolt sport climb on the Y.S.F wall (Younger. Stronger. Fitter. Wall) of the West Buttress F.A Travis and Drew

The photo of Travis and Jamie cleaning and bolting a new new short sport multi pitch on Y.S.F Wall -unnamed project most likely 5.12. This route will be done before summer is over. Some of the coolest granite I have ever seen.

There is also a pic of John Mcmahon climbing "beautiful nightmare" 5.9 in the Cougar Den put up by Christie I think.

In the DVR (Daniel's) we had machete accidents, multi day rain storms, and eventually ran out of food, but not before we climbed 840m up the north face of Super Unknown on a route we dubbed "Dude Wall" 5.10 A3, so far with a party of 4 - Travis Foster, John Mcmahon, Elliot Vercoe, Drew Leiterman.

New Guidebook Has Arrived!

Buy Powell River Rocks Online

 The new guidebook has finally arrived! A version of my bouldering guide, re-worked by author Christie Dionne can be found within this printed guide. Christie has put in a ton of work collecting info for 14 different areas (including some alpine) for this guide. It's a massive improvement on the amount of info that was previously available through the last guide book printed over 15 years ago.
 

Powell River Rocks can also be purchased at Basecamp Coffee and West Coast Thick (both on Marine Avenue)

New Route Info Page!

Powell River is infamous for having a lack of information on its climbing. With a new guide book coming out soon, this page will serve as place to find updates and new route info. Like any guide book, by time it is published there will already be new routes that weren't recorded.
New route info found here! Click the link below

New Route Info Powell River

http://prclimbing.blogspot.ca/p/new-routes.html

Stunning New Route - Amon Rudh

Last season, the valley master Matt Hodgson teamed up with "young skywalker" Evan Guibalt to finish up a Stunning vision that Matt has been working on.  Though Amon is the furthest wall in the valley and has the longest approach, it likely holds the best potential for clean free climbing in the Eldred.

12 Rounds with Boo Boo, 14 Pitches, 5.11 C1


From Matt's FB:

"The latest PROUD addition to Amon Rudh!! A young sky walker & myself have added another 9 pitches onto the route 12 Rounds With Boo Boo.
You climb the first 4 pitches of 12 Rounds to the top of the sickle. You then climb 20 m up the corner crack until you see a perfect dyke traversing right for 3 m. You traverse the dyke (5.10)into the top of The Sir Prize. It conveniently brings you just above the off width. You climb the beautiful Prize corner into On The Verge, follow OTV for 4 pitches before heading out left to the Golden corners.
12 Rounds With Boo Boo
14 pitches 5.11 C1"

Crux of P4

P2

Brent Goodman FAing the Salvages in the Mist pitch

Evan styling the 3m traverse into the Sir Prize pitch

The aptly named Sir Prize pitch

FA of Another New Big Wall - Daniels Valley

Evan Guilbault and Colin Landeck put a route up in the Daniels this past summer. That's two walls climbed now, could be the beginning of something...


From Evan Guibault's FB.


"If you would have told me two weeks ago that I was about to put up a 5000ft technical rock route, I probably would have shyly smiled while my eyes scanned the horizon and gently changed the subject. This topo validates years and years of vision honed in the mythical Coast Range, my home. Sacred Stone exists; a dream that is real. 27 pitches of dream climbing. 1600 metres, 5250 ft....I'm ready for more."

"BEEEEAUUUUTIFUL BIG WALLS!!!! Young Stokemaster Colin Landeck & myself have just returned from the adventure of our lives. 11 days in literal heaven on earth...paradise; 5 days on the Big Stone; 3 days of continuous, perfect, magic flow ascending a stone no others had ever before...1600m (5250 feet) of technical rock climbing brought us to the summit of The Super Unknown, one of multiple gargantuan granite big walls in the Daniels River Valley. Thank you to all my loved ones for all your support, the power of vision cannot be underestimated, the Super Unknown goes. Climbed in 27 large pitches, Over 20 of 27 being FIVE STAR ***** Free climbing GLORY. Zero bolts were installed on this ascent, they aren't needed. Nothing in my life has ever brought me higher. The trails are built, the line is up, the stoke is high.
FA:
SACRED STONE VI 5.10 A1 1600m 
The Super Unknown
Daniels River Valley
Aug 10, 2017."

Heading towards the Amphitheatre

Bug net beta

Massive First Ascent in the Daniels Valley

Travis Foster and Drew Leiterman made the first ascent of a massive wall in the Daniels Valley recently. The wall is called Red Alert, and they named the route Jungle is Massive - 5.10 C2, 25 very long pitches.
 To say the least, this is a pretty amazing ascent.

Check out Gripped's coverage, and a write up in Powell River Living for more

info.http://gripped.com/news/massive-new-big-wall-climbed-powell-river/


http://prliving.ca/rock-climbers-make-first-ascent-massive-wall/

New Moderate Route on Carag Dur - Building Gondolin 5.11a

Evan Guilbault and crew have managed to push a route to the top of Carag Dur on the far right of the wall. Being on the far right the elevation is much lower, this route tallies up to only 5 pitches which will make for a great casual day out. 
 The first pitch was put up many years ago but had since grown over (along with a few other pitches in the vicinity). It's great to see this revival and hopefully it will open up the possibility of more routes on either side. 
Though Christie Dionne is working on a free route on the far left of the wall, for now this is the only route to summit Carag Dur since a young Matt Maddaloni aided straight up the middle of the wall with a friend back in '99!

From Evan's Facebook:

Eleven months later, and one more project is ticked. Thanks to everyone who helped out with this one. Colin Landeck, Evan Porter-Lockhart, Zoe Manson, Max Merkin, & Travis Foster and to the OG's who came before us.

BUILDING GONDOLIN II 5.11a, 5 pitches, 240m, FA: June 12, 2017

2nd route on Caragdur to summit ground up, first since 1999! THE line for any 10+/11- trad climber in The Valley looking for those sweet sweet splitter cracks. Easy approach, incredible varied climbing, cracks, dihedrals, pumpy, stacked and ready to go.

---------------------------------------

Route info can be found here:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/building-gondol…/112076968

Approach time 45 minutes, follow the carag dur trail to the wall and just keep going right until you see it. Hard to miss the first pitch as it's the obviously cleaned splitter.

As of now it still needs some cleaning, specifically the final 5.9 pitch. A topo will be posted on the sign board in camp when available.

This is sure to be a classic and will hopefully get a lot of traffic.

Much Scrubbing

Last season, Evan Guibalt, Zoe Manson and crew have been taking the valley by storm, cleaning new boulders, new routes, discovering entirely new walls, retro scrubbing classic multi pitch, linking big alpine ridge traverses, and getting in on some clean alpine trad action. Much more to come from this super psyched crew of youngsters.

Zoe cranking some perfect alpine granite in the Emerald valley. One valley over, accessed via the Emma Lake hut. A committing approach, multi day outing, but is sure to be a top notch adventure zone awaiting many FAs. 

A clean as can be highball (or will it be a route?) on the Carag Dur side of the Eldred river. 

BIG news! New Eldred Valley Information Website

Local pioneer Christie Dionne has just published a website with all current route and area info on the Eldred Valley! I also just sent her all the info I have on bouldering in the valley and it will be added shortly. This is a huge step forward in Valley development. I have also heard that the paper guide book (which will be combined with my bouldering guide) should be ready by next season....though of course it's a huge project, so please don't quote me on any actual time line :).

 I've also recently been able to connect with one of the original climbers in Powell River, Robert Richards (who along with Colin Dionne made the first ascent of the West Main Wall). Rob is literally a walking encyclopedia on every square inch of rock ever climbed in the original days of development. With Rob's help I'll finally be able to add the history of bouldering in the area, and add names to problems that were previously climbed to give credit where its due. Things are really moving forward with getting information on the area, and with the climbing gym co-op opening this winter, I really feel like next season is going to be a big one!

View the website here:  http://powellriverrock.wixsite.com/cadmc

New Routing on Carag Dur

I haven't been posting much this season due to working on opening a not for profit climbing gym co-op (which takes up 90% of my free time) -  Please feel free to support the project and find out info here - http://prclimbinggym.com/

In other news, a crew has been living in the Eldred over the season. Here's a peak at a route they've put up. Topo should be available in the camp site by now on the bulletin board.

 From Evan Guilbalt's FB post:

"Pitch 1 of "Building Gondolin" New Route using parts of Afternoon Delight going up the right side of Carag-Dur. 4-5 pitches of sustained 5.10 crack climbing...More info to come. Lots of new routing going on in The Valley."

Pitch 1 

 Though at least this pitch is actually an old route, it was long abandoned about 10 years ago. It had been recleaned about 4 years ago, but not beyond the original two pitches and had since grown over again. There were  two adjacent lines (one up the splitter and one to the right of the flake) to the same anchor. However, now, this is a 4 pitch line, and it appears that the obvious crack is what was re-cleaned. 
 To get to it, hike the carag dur trail to the top and walk right along the base of the wall. You can't miss it.

Psyche Slab - The Most Developed Wall in the Valley * Updated

The most accessible wall in the valley, it's host to 15 free multi pitch routes (from 3 to 12 pitches), and 2 single pitch routes. Pysche Slab is by far the most developed, most climbed wall in the valley. Due to it being a slab, though at times near vertical, it lends itself to easy to (mostly) moderate free climbing. 

Mika on the awesome first pitch of RacknoPhobia

You'll also notice that the view on the slab is stunning. The West Main Wall and Carag Dur protrude in the background.

Beer Ledge - Scattered Conditions (Credit John W.) - Carag Dur in back

Detailed route info as posted on the sign heading into the climber's camp:

From left to right:

SRI - 5.10 

Day Pass  - 5.7


Sanitarium - 5.9

Skitsophrenia - 5.10 *** A must do!

Racknophobia - 5.11

Never Never Land - 5.11b

Solstice  - 5.10

Trailer Park boys - ? (A steeper crack system start to the right of Solstice...I think, but don't take my word for it) 

 The next 3 routes start on an alcove up a very steep trail that branches left directly off the main trail

Pyscho Path - 5.10

White Dykes and Dirt Barbies - 5.9

Decoy - 5.10b

Scattered Conditons  5.11d or 5.11-A0   - *Not in photo, between Decoy and Falkland Crisis. Starts on a very low angle slab just passed the steep Psychopath trail, at the time of writing this too dirty to climb but the next few pitches look fine.  Could traverse in from WDandDB.  Topo found here: Scattered Conditions Topo

The Falkland Crisis - 5.9+  - This early line climbs the strikingly obvious dihedral feature in the middle of the slab, just right of Scattered Conditions. Although I'd like to try and clean it this season, it is currently completely grown over and best avoided. 

Delusional Reality - 10.d   (Hard to find, you've gotta know what you're looking for to find the access pitch which is very bushed in)

Check out Mountain Project for some topos of the routes.  (Warning: Topos may not be up to date or entirely accurate, use your best judgement)

Comfortable shoes that are good for smearing are highly recommended, unless you're a total masochist of course.

 Since the current guide book is over 10 years old and 90% of the routes aren't in it, it's understandable that there is little traffic. Many routes are vegetated or mossed over, particularly in the lower pitches. Once you get passed this (or find a cleaner route, - keep looking, they're there!) the climbing is top notch.  Bringing a brush is always a good idea - be a good sport and scrub on your rap down!

Photo Spread

Lots has been going on in the Eldred Valley lately. My season has wrapped up, but here's some photos by Matt Hodgson of some projects being worked on.

Brent Goodman on a project near the swimming spot

Matt Hodgson on his Blessings in Disguise project

Big Balls Lazarski jugging on the Mad Mardigan project

Kevan Robitaille being lowered into space to jug out from a new project

Kevan starting up the short bolt ladder on the new project

Three First Ascents in 3 Days

The heat wave is over, and cooler temps means crushing temps. On Saturday, July 19th, Matt Hodgson got the FFA (first free ascent) of the infamous Dunamis, Lake Blufs, suggesting a possible grade of  5.11.D.  I was hoping to be able to take photos of the FFA but ended up being on belay instead.

 Matt also cleaned a new route to the immediate right, and realizing it was well within his ability, decided to free solo it before ever tying in.  I've heard rumors that this was also a nude ascent....No comment. Suggested grade of 5.10 or 5.9   This brings a whole new meaning to the idea of a 'free' ascent. The route is called Nuts in Honey, luckily there were no accidental nut placements or I don't think it would count as a free ascent...

 Today I made the FFA (after doing it on TR before bolting) of my long standing project 'Falling Up' (5.12.c?)  This route had a lot of personal value for me, for a number of reasons. It was the first route I ever bolted, meaning the bolts aren't all in the most ideal places, but most importantly it was a route I bolted under the guidance of Colin Dionne.

I fell from the final few moves, way back in 2010 when the route went up, on the last day of my season. I moved to the city, and pretty much stopped climbing seriously for the next few years. The route was never named, though during Colin's celebration of life ceremony, I heard that the term "Falling Up" was something Colin used to refer to. Aside from the obvious euphemism for climbing, it was also a term for relating to the challenges of life. Sometimes you fall down, but sometimes what seems bad ends up teaching you something valuable, sometimes it's for the best, sometimes, it feels like you fall up.

 The route sheds a lot of rock. At the time, I wasn't thinking about rock quality, I just wanted to put up something hard that hadn't been done. The last time I tried it I broke a key foot hold, and even on the FA I broke a hand hold but was able to stay on. As much as I'd love to say it's a 4 star route, the rock quality just doesn't allow that high of a quality rating. I found it very difficult to grade, and it definitely needs more consensus. There is only one 12.b at Higgyland, which I was able to do fairly quickly after figuring out the crux,  leading me to suggest the slightly harder grade for Falling Up.

A Day at The Lake Bluffs

When's the best time to discover your lens is broken? I don't know, but it probably isn't while hanging from the end of a rope minutes before you plan on shooting. I was still able to get a few decent shots, despite the quality from the busted lens. Enjoy!

Matt Hodgson - Coma (Old guide gives "5.11-/5.10+", probably 10.b or C. 

To the left of Coma is a series of rails, micro crimps, and a thin seem with one old rusty hanger and a 1/4 inch bolt. After studying the guide book and rapping down it twice, it's still hard to say what line it is.

 I think it's a link up of the start of Coma into the C4 Aid route 'Perseverance" into Coca Cola Classic (5.12).   I've heard this link up has been done in the past on TR, though it isn't written in as such in the old guide book. If this line does in fact go, it will likely be in the 5.13 range, or very close to it.

"Perseverance" is listed in the guide as route #27, twice, in two completely different areas of the crag. Regardless of what it might be called, it sure is an amazing line.

Super hard link up

Cruising through micro crimps pre-dyno.

Moss Mountain photo by Tourism Powell River

Andy belaying Marc on either Taco (5.9) or Taco Direct (5.10) At Moss Mountain, Stillwater

Photo courtesy of Tourism Powell River.

There's even a short clip of Andy topping out here in this video.  Skip to 1:10 for the clip.

The Lake Bluffs: Powell River's Trad Climbing Area Revival

Over the last few days the left side of The Lake Bluffs, the Sunny Side Bench Area and Crack the Whip Area have seen some serious scrubbing.

Dylan Merrick spent 3 days cleaning Dunamis (5.11b), which is now a contender for one of my favourite routes in town. I've never seen a route cleaned so thoroughly, mad props to Dylan for the quality of work.

 To get there, you simply take a left when you reach the top of the approach trail. You can't miss it.
The first time I went to check this area out, many years ago, I noticed a few of the completely over grown/unclimbeable routes and basically passed the whole area off. That was also back when I hadn't spent so much time trad climbing in Squamish, so those kind of routes didn't really stand out to me, and I was too used to bullet clean granite.

Every route there is great, with lines to rival any 4 star route at The Smoke Bluffs. I never thought I'd be saying that, but, I guess I just did. That being said, remember, this definitely isn't Sqamish. Expect some scruff, a few sand bagged grades, and routes with no anchors (Adds to the adventure).

Dylan Merrick cruising through the crux of Southern Exposure (5.9) *** Photo  © Christie Dionne 2014

There is still lots of cleaning to be done, and even a new route being worked out by one of the areas long time cleaning-veterans.

Scan of the 2002 guide book Sunnyside Bench Area topo

Below are excerpts from the old guide book of the area, some of which I have changed entirely to add more detail.

Sunny Side Bench Area + South Face

Southern Exposure (5.9)*** 
 Not in the 2002 guide book. Around the corner/up the trail from Barad-Dur. There is a rocky plateau at the  base of this route. Fun face and crack climbing, and your choice of which crux to tackle.
 There is new webbing and a rap ring on the tree above this route, safe to use as an anchor and to rap from.  A 60m rope will reach the ground for TR/rap from here. Single rack.

Barad-Dur (5.9) ***
 This route starts just to the left of a small plateau marked by a small rock bench at the far left of the crag. Starts out as blocky face climbing leading into the crack which offers good pro and excellent climbing with solid rests between moves.
 Fixed static line anchor shared with Dunamis. 60m just reaches ground for TR from anchor.

Dunamis (5.11b)****  
 To the right of Barad-Dur, at the base of a right facing corner/column. Step into the column from around the corner on higher ground (starting from the very base is out of reach of the first hold). Minimal/no gear down low means climbing to the one and only bolt several meters off the ground. Follow the obvious, stunning finger crack to the top. Bold and very reachy.
 Currently the anchor is fixed static line with two old biners on it. You can rap from this anchor to the ground as well as TR, tie knots as rope just barely reaches ground. Small gear.

 "I (Chris Amrstrong, author of the original guidebook) took a 35-foot upside down whipper attempting the first ascent of the direct variation, pulling 3 pieces of gear in the upper crux. So while the direct variation (starting as described above) hasn't been (lead)climbed yet keep in mind that the gear isn't as good up high. I had dizzy spells for months from post-whiplash effects. Definitely height dependent, bring your longest set of arms for the crux, and a helmet." - From the description in the 2002 guide book from the author and route developer.

Khazad-Dum (5.9) **
The series of broken cracks between Dunamis and Crack of Doom. Seeps down low, so wait for a few days of continuous sun. Good gear, with many possible variation. Great upper section. Scramble up to the top of the crag and build a tree anchor, belay from above for TR.

Crack of Doom (5.9 PG13) ***  [Original book says 5.8+....definitely at least a 5.9 though]
Dihedral to the right of khazad dum, joins it near the top. Follow the obvious inside corner/face holds into a scary and fun exposed block section. This climb has face climbing, hands, lay backing, and even two short chimneys up top. After the blocks, step left onto a ledge and a hidden crack provides safe gear and easier climbing. However, a fall could still mean hitting the shelf below so place your gear well.  Double rack ideal, though can be climbed with a single rack if you are into very long run outs. Big gear needed in the last several meters.
 *Roughly 45m long, and like all other routes in the area there is NO bolted  anchor. Be sure to know how to build an anchor from a tree a few meters back and belay from up top!


Crack the Whip Area

Suspended Animation (5.10 PG13)***
 Sustained climbing and small gear.

*next two climbs listed in scanned pages above


 It's very important to know that there are NO bolted anchors in the sunny side area. I found this out the hard way after on-sighting Crack of Doom (which is now one of my favourite climbs in town). I ended up half free soloing it due to the length and lack of gear I brought, and wasted a lot of time building a frankenstein anchor with what little webbing I had left off of a small tree. Not ideal at all. You may be able to build gear anchors on one or two of the routes, but I'm not sure, and given the length of some of them you'd likely be out of pieces by time you need to build an anchor either way.

Other than the fixed static rope on Dunamis and webbing on a tree above Southern Exposure, you must build your own anchors off trees.

  You either need to know how to build an anchor using your rope or lead with / haul up very long webbing or static line, which wouldn't be very practical. So learn how to build your anchor properly, and be safe. It also means that on routes such as Crack of Doom, once you get to the top, where you would expect to find anchors/rap rings, you actually have to scramble up through the moss/brush above your last piece of gear unless you bring a few #4s - so be careful. (It's easy class 4 scrambling.)  It's something you'll want to be prepared for.

The style is good traditional ethics, and something you don't see as often making it unique.  For people used to climbing in Squamish or Skaha, this may be off-putting, but the climbing is worth it.  Plus, if you're into trad climbing, the more anchor building experience you can get the better....right? (Starting to learn this for myself...)

Don't leave your pils on the ground, the slugs here move fast.