Powell River Bouldering Guide - 2020 Update free download

 An older version of this guide was made available in the Powell River Rocks guidebook. I also made an updated version available for download for a small fee.

Since that time, the amount of bouldering in the Eldred Valley has more than doubled. Many new areas have been opened. I no longer live in Powell River, and am unable to fully update the guide at this time. A new developer and I are working on a website that will include all the new lines, areas, and projects that are openly being reported. It will be a user updated interactive interface for all things bouldering in the Powell River area.  Eventually, I do plan on collecting everything and making a proper update. 

Now that the shoulder season is approaching, I'd like to release this slightly updated version with a few corrections and sent projects. It does not include the huge amount of new stuff in the Buttress boulders, the Psyche slab area, or the Sanctuary. 

An important note - Stillwater bluffs is a highly sensitive ecosystem, and an area that the Friends of Stillwater Bluffs are working hard to conserve.  Abide by all ethical guidelines in this guide. If word spreads of any climbers leaving garbage, parking incorrectly, damaging the area in anyway, or annoying residents of the neighbourhood, this guide will come down.

Please re-scrub problems if you are in the valley - if everyone retro-scrubbed just one problem per trip things would stay clean! Be very bear aware as there are occasional grizzly sightings in the area.

Enjoy!

Notice of rights - all rights reserved. No part of this PDF, including photographs, maps or text may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without consent of the author.


Some beta can be found by following my Instagram 'Krizob', or searching Eldred Valley or Powell River bouldering on Youtube. 

DOWNLOAD THE FREE GUIDE HERE

Bouldering Guide Available Now!!

I'm proud to finally release a bouldering guidebook for the Powell River area!!
*Note, a few minor updates added in 2019.

---  Scroll Down for Buy Now option --

Blurry jpeg export of the cover

   Though this guide was completed quite some time ago, an alternate and slightly less complete version is being included within the new published guide book by Christie Dionne "Powell River Rocks" (see previous post). I didn't want to release the guide on its own until the full project was completed. Like any guide, by the time it is published, new problems will have been established already. This version includes several harder problems that are listed in the print guide as projects, as well as more detailed information.

This is the the most recent information available on bouldering in the Powell River area, and can stand alone as a guide for those just interested in bouldering as it provides all the beta you need to get to the areas, how to plan a trip, and what to expect.

It will only be offered as a download, unless there is either enough demand or enough development to warrant publishing physical copies - maybe for the next update. For that reason, I'm offering this download at an extremely low price considering the amount of work that has gone into it.

 I respectfully ask that you do not share this guide for free after downloading. While it isn't perfect, this project took an immense amount of time. All of the information was started from scratch. If you can't afford $10, use less chalk or try drinking one less six pack a year and hopefully you'll be able to check out the guide. Enjoy, and happy sending!

Blurry jpeg export of the inside cover

DOWNLOAD POWELL RIVER BOULDERING 2018

Select Buy Now, pay securely with PayPal, and I will email you link to download a copy within a 24 - 48 hr period.

Jesse Taplin Sends 3 Projects in B Branch

Jesse Taplin of Victoria visited the Eldred recently and made quick work of three open projects. The grades are from V7 to V9 ish.


Heres a video a quick power problem on the Communication boulder. Starts as for Doobie Sloth but moves right instead of left.

Video of Jesse finding the proper beta for the project on the back of the Azul boulder (which he graded around V8) can be seen here.

He also climbed the overhanging triangular boulder just up the trail (adjacent to the Tank boulder) which I had only tried a few times before abandoning due to a tweaked knee. I never thought much of it but I'm told that it climbs as good as any top 100 Squamish problem and is in the V7 range.

Updates will be published in the final bouldering guide - which I'll upload for sale online.

Eldred Valley Bouldering Guide Download

 Here's a treat for the new year. I'm very psyched to bring you A PDF excerpt of the Eldred section from the upcoming guide book. I'll release the Stillwater section when I can- and now that I've been able to connect with local stone master Rob Richards, who is pretty much a walking guide book when his memory is jogged, many of the original names and history of the area can finally be included.

 It may not look like much, but this took far more time and effort than you might think. Starting a guide from scratch means a lot of things. It means hiking around and drawing maps (which are refined over and over), taking photos, lots and lots of editing, learning to use an open-source publishing soft-ware because I can't afford to pay for one, taking the time to seek out the history of the area and not rushing things (more will be included in the full guide), and of course, scrubbing and climbing everything. I have scrubbed and or climbed every single problem in this guide, and that of course was the best part of all.

 It would mean a lot if you could donate any amount to the cause - it will either go towards bolts for routes, gear for trail work, or publishing costs for a completed guide.

The except can be downloaded here - Eldred Valley Bouldering - Excerpt 

Donations can be made with the donation tab on the right side-bar.  In person beers are welcomed, especially if I see you in the valley.

Low quality sneak peaks at the cover and back-cover:
                     

A mini online version can be seen here (not as updated as the full link)
Mini Online Version by Christie Dionne

Enjoy!!

BIG news! New Eldred Valley Information Website

Local pioneer Christie Dionne has just published a website with all current route and area info on the Eldred Valley! I also just sent her all the info I have on bouldering in the valley and it will be added shortly. This is a huge step forward in Valley development. I have also heard that the paper guide book (which will be combined with my bouldering guide) should be ready by next season....though of course it's a huge project, so please don't quote me on any actual time line :).

 I've also recently been able to connect with one of the original climbers in Powell River, Robert Richards (who along with Colin Dionne made the first ascent of the West Main Wall). Rob is literally a walking encyclopedia on every square inch of rock ever climbed in the original days of development. With Rob's help I'll finally be able to add the history of bouldering in the area, and add names to problems that were previously climbed to give credit where its due. Things are really moving forward with getting information on the area, and with the climbing gym co-op opening this winter, I really feel like next season is going to be a big one!

View the website here:  http://powellriverrock.wixsite.com/cadmc

Video of some B Branch Boulders

A friend from Vancouver was recently in town, and despite only a few hours spent in the valley, in the rain, he managed to make some sends, including one FA, and work a few projects before the conditions became too wet.

The problems are:

FA of a V7 variation to Inverted Academics(V6)  (*Update, the V7 is now called Nameless Nirvana), instead of going straight up from the crimps, bump right to the good hold, bear down on a tiny left hand crimp, control the swing, and lock off to pull through to the lip. Super fun gymnastic problem!  (Warning: the jug that you leg bar off of is flexing, use caution)

Working the Ataraxia project (my guess is around V9)

Attempt to link  'Cheater' (V2) into the classic The Revival (V4)

A quick send of The Dark Crystal (V4)

 Most problems stayed dry despite a heavy overnight rain and off and on rain throughout the whole day.

New Problems in B branch

On a recent trip up the valley we bumped into two French climbers, currently calling Revelstoke home. They were very stoked to explore the area, and in only a few short hours we added 3 new problems, one project, and I eyed up another yet to be scrubbed.
 All new problems are right next to the parking, to the left of the Communication Eater boulder (see map and mini guide posted on the bulletin board in camp, and the binder I left in the out house), new problems not added yet.
 Anthony put up a V3 ish slab just left of the V1 on Communication eater.
 All other new problems are on the same boulder, it's visibly obvious, directly behind communication eater, so as soon as you walk in and look left you'll see Rain Away and Azule's arete.

 Photos:

Anthony on a new V3 I put up after a team effort, RainAway. To the right on the same boulder is a quality arete we put up, now named after Anthony's dog, 'Azule's Arete' - V2. 

Trying all kinds of beta on the project. This didn't quite work, but it lead to figuring out the sequence.

Me testing out my hamstring on the project, about to hit the crux swing to get around the corner - unfortunately my leg wasn't quite ready for this yet.

Anthony searching for holds.

Spring Cleaning

Spring Cleaning

Just a quick snap shot of some spring cleaning up in the Valley from this weekend. I built a cedar ladder to leave in B-branch to make scrubbing easier. Here I am testing it out on the amazing A Dog Named Boo (V1) ****, which is now extra clean and ready for some laps. I gave my project 'Ataraxia' a clean as well, the line that starts underclinging the huge flake and traverses out the very shallow sloping crack. I'm recovering from a torn hamstring still and can't do much climbing still, but hope to put that project down this season.

New V0's in the Eldred, B-Branch

Spent a day in the valley with my partner Anna, who put up her first boulder problems. Two new V0's behind the giant Dog Day boulder in B Branch. One of which "Shadow Porn", is a great climb on well featured rock up a steep slab. The other, "My Humps"

No crash pad? No problem - I donated an old pad to the campsite. I hope people will see it and realize there must be some bouldering around!

 

Working for the send

New problem! Needs a good rain to clean it up more.

Great features found beneath the moss

Sending the awesome Muddy Rails (V1). A steep jug traverse that ends with a belly flop of a mantle.

Sharing is caring

Stash pad

Why the long silence?

 I haven't been updating this blog for awhile, but not due to lack of climbing news in Powell River.

Matt Hodgson has been crushing, developing a whole new bouldering area across the river in the Eldred, with a new zipline access.
 There's been ascents on the Buttress, and new stuff at the lake bluffs as well.

I haven't been posting because I'm back in school, living in Vancouver, and have been very busy working on opening a co-op climbing gym in Powell River. Between that, school, work, and climbing as much as possible in Squamish, I've been a bit out of the loop with the actual climbing scene in PR.

 For anyone who doesn't know, check out our website, at prclimbinggym.com for info, and join our FB page "Powell River Climber's Co-op" for updates as they come.

 In the mean time, enjoy a few videos! The first is one I made of one of the most recent problem's I've established in Squamish.  It might take me a while to get the hang of filming and editing, but I cant wait to start making some videos of the climbing in PR this coming season.

 Enjoy! https://vimeo.com/150876433  <--- Click there to see the vid.

 Here's one I dug up of Matt H getting the FA of Inverted Academics (V6) in the Eldred. I busted my knee on the second ascent and still can't do certain kinds of heel hooks. Injury aside, it's a really unique, must do problem in B Branch.

Inverted Academics, FA, V6 - Matt Hodgson  <--- Click there for the video of Matt!

Buttress Boulders and B-Branch Photos - Eldred Valley

Just a few snap shots I snagged from Matt Hodgson. Hope everyone is staying warm and dry this winter. The first two photos are of the awesome new boulder discovered in the 'other' side of the road in the Buttress cluster. Eldred Valley bouldering at it's finest. This thing looks like it's right out of Ferngully. It's tall, and the rock quality is stellar. The line moves into a few crimps before hitting the crack to top out.

Anna's Green Fables - (Ungraded) 

Low Card - V1 (The shortest problem in the valley, it's an odd one)

Bulge Project - B Branch

This boulder in the Buttress area needs a bit of scrub down to get shiney, but after the carpet moss was pulled back some rad problems revealed themselves. Not a bad view of the Mainer in the background either.

Blessings in Disguise - Ungraded. West Main Wall in background.

Unknown problem, right side of Blessings

The classic block hold on the Open Canvas Boulder

Happy New Year....?

Eldred Valley - B Branch Boulders - Inverted Area. Just Another Project.

Matt H  - Just another project

This beauty was uncovered by Matt in what has become a cluster of problems I'm dubbing the 'Inverted Area', right near the beginning of the B Branch trail. This problem is a stone's throw passed the awesome Inverted Academics, which I fired the second ascent of before we started sessioning this project.

See the FA of Inverted Academics here.  This is a tough problem to grade...especially since I've never done anything similar to it with such a full on leg hook before. I agree with Matt's idea of it either being a softer V6 or a sandbagged V5. Matt and I are pretty different height wise, so our styles are very different, and my lack of reach made me have to be fully extended and move dynamically. Looks like it'll need a 3'rd opinion.

The new project feels like a V6 or even a V7, but it's so hard to say until it's actually sent. Our fingers were fairly destroyed, so maybe it's even easier. Matt came super close to cranking it during the session, and whichever of us gets back on it next will likely nab the FA.

Also in B Branch, to the left of the main boulder right by the parking spot, I put up a new easy problem called Communication Eater. Basically, the problem ate my phone when I was cleaning it. I love it when a problem name's itself.

On the same boulder, there's 3 cool dyno problems starting from the same hold. It's like a mirror sequence of the seaside boulder - all starting on the same good hold, one going straight up, one going left, and one going right. This is why our fingers were so shredded.

I (mostly) sent the very fun leftward campus problem, which will be called Doobie Sloth (V5/6?) though I kind of cheated and had some momentum from leaving the ground so need to go back and send it properly before I truly claim a first ascent.


We also did some exploring in the Buttress Boulders, and found what I think might be the best problem in the entire Valley so far. It was too dark to take a photo, and we only tried the first move. It's hard, starting with what may be either a campus or very difficult heel hook on a rail (exactly like the super classic 5 star Sunshine and Lollipops in Squamish). It's steep, and though the top out was quite mossy, it looks like it will involve a very difficult, fairly high mantle.

 I can't wait to get stronger and put in some work on it to see how it'll turn out!

Oh, I also found out the possible grade of the new route 'Against the Current' on the Buttress. I think I heard somewhere in the 11+ range. I hope I have time to get on it before the season is over...so much to do so little time.

Yet another project, and, a side-project

Here's a little teaser of something I decided to start working on - a Powell River/Eldred Valley bouldering guide.
 A new guide book is currently in the works, by the person by-far most qualified to make it. I told her I'd help out with the bouldering part, and so far have only produced a hand drawn map...time to step it up! My recent trip to Squamish, and purchase of the new bouldering guide book got me super inspired.

The Stacks: SeaSide Boulder
1. Old School - V3    2. Middle School - V4/5    3. New School - V3

Since my budget is 0.00$, I'm attempting this project entirely with free software. So far the main challenges are creating decent maps without photo shop. I use GIMP, but I have a huge learning curve to deal with before getting good enough to illustrate decently with it.


My plans to head up the Eldred tomorrow may not work out due to car problems, but, here's a pic from my last time up there where some actual climbing went down. Matt H on the mega project, Dog Day Boulder, B Branch.

Projecting in B Branch

For the guide, I'm hoping to be able to use icons (crimpy, reachy, highball, etc) the same way the Squamish guide does, but may have to find away around that as well. I just want to make a printable PDF really, but of course want it to be quality. Wish me luck!

 I just found enough free-ware to build my own version of Adobe Creative Suite! I'm currently using BetaCreator to overlay images with lines and starting points, GIMP to add text/format images/edit photos/create maps, LibreOffice for text drafts, and Scribus for 'publishing' it all together into a book format.

 Thank God for all those people out there who want to make the world a better, freer place! 

Here's my first draft, trying to figure out how to use Scribus.  (*PF stands for personal favourite, I've decided not to use the classic star rating system, for reason which are explained in the guide) Also, the names and First Ascents in the sample below are likely to change, as I still have to do some research.

New route going up, and a project going down.

Despite a whole lot of rain over the last few weeks, plenty of climbing has been going on in the area. For starters, here's a video of Matt H sending the John Galt project that was worked on back in 2008, which you can read about here. Matt and I worked the problem last trip up the valley, and he unlocked the beta just before the rain hit. 

New Problem:

First ascent!
Problem: Inverted Academics   Grade: V6 (unconfirmed)   -   Thanks to Anna for the video!

How cool is that massive leg hook? The micro crimps above it would be pretty much useless without such a solid set up.

New Route:
In other news, over the last couple of days I've been working on a new line immediately left of Major Attitude, in the Gappage zone at HiggyLand. The line follows the obvious arête, until it tops out on a ledge just below the end of Major Attitude.
  

Just passed 3/4 way up the line,  instead of following the arête you can go straight up the face to  finish on Major Attitude, and avoid the tricky ending of the new route. Luckily, this slightly easier finish in no way compromises the style of the route, as you still have to turn the final roof of Major Attitude. Both possible finishes are steep and bouldery. 

Grade wise, I'm thinking around 11c, but I'm terrible at grading anything, so who knows.
Hopefully I'll have a chance to bolt it soon, and maybe even get a photo up!

Speaking of photos, here's a random one of Mika sending Prince, before the power lines went in.

Open Boulder Surgery

And here's me cleaning a project in B Branch. Yes - that is a surgical mask that I'm wearing...it does wonders to keep the rock dust and mildew out of your lungs.

B Branch: The problem formerly known as prince

Sophie on 'Prince'

 The Open Canvas boulder, well featured, over hanging granite. A face of rails, slopers, crimps, and a giant random block - it's also home to my current favourite problem in B Branch - The Problem Formerly Known as Prince

Working a sequence

This boulder is exposed to the sun, is always first to dry out after rain, and stays remarkably clean. Three problems all start on the same low rail and move into the amazing block feature pictured here before branching into different sequences.

'Prince' is a short problem that exits left - it's the most obvious sequence of easier moves.

Here's a partial sequence of me on the first ascent of 'The problem formerly known as Prince" (V3/4)  Instead of moving left to climb Prince, establish on the rail, and move to a good hold on your right. 

Throw to the triangular feature in the center of the boulder.

First ascent

A series of delicate technical moves will allow you to establish a solid foot on the big low rail. Then you can pull a final crimp and stand up to a straight forward top out.

Matt on the FA of Open Canvas

Open Canvas follows the same first sequence of The problem formerly known as Prince, but instead of exiting straight up the face, you throw left to the same side pull that Prince uses and exit on the top left. Very fun, gymnastic style problem.

Note: All grades are unconfirmed.

B-Branch: Pre Power Lines

Ah, the luscious green forest of the Eldred Valley. This boulder happens to no longer be covered in moist green moss - and actually isn't technically in the forest at all anymore. The top half of the B Branch area has been exposed to the elements ever since the power lines went through, which keeps them moss free and super clean (to look on the positive side of a strip of forest being taken out of the valley).

Here we we see Emma spotting Angus on what was then an un-named problem, likely a V1. Since then, it has taken on the name Log Jam, from the pile of discarded logs clear cutting left behind -  with just enough space to put a crash pad on. 

Eldred Valley Road Trip 2008

 When I graduated high school, the first thing I did was pack up my gear and move to Squamish. It was pretty much the ideal summer, and lead to meeting a lot of amazing people, climbing every day that I could, and getting my first photo ever published in  Gripped Magazine. The set of photos in this post will be 5 years old by time this year's season kicks off, and are mostly poorly done snap shots - but they bring me back to the first time I ever had the privilege of sharing the first area of the Eldred Valley boulders I started to re-clean with a crew of super fun, equally stoked individuals. The B branch boulders had been partially developed already years ago by Colin, Rob and crew - but had subsequently grown back over. Whenever I brought one of the original developers into the woods to show them my "new" line, they'd say "I think (insert name here) climbed that.....yeah....probably". Since many of the names had been forgotten, the 'first' ascentionist still gets to name the problem, and there's even the chance that it was in fact a legit first ascent - but it never really mattered, in my mind it was still the same feeling. Discovering a new line, cleaning it, working it to see if it goes, then finally sending it.You can't beat that experience. I must have really been hyped, seeing as I was able to talk a crew of people with limited vacation time into actually leaving Squamish for a place they had never even heard of.

 

 Starting off in Squamish, we packed up everything we had but the kitchin sink - I mean kid's pool - and hit the road.

After taking the boat from Horse Shoe bay over to the Sunshine Coast, driving the length of it, and taking another ferry into Saltery Bay, we were feeling the need to stretch our limbs. The Stacks is a seaside high ball area in Stillwater, and since it's between the ferry and my mom's house (where we inevitably crashed at for showers and real food), we headed straight there to take advantage of the last hours of sun. I've spent countless hours at The Stacks over the years, traversing back and forth and soloing the easier problems - just myself, the ocean, and the cool orange-grey granite. When you lay back for a break, all you hear are the waves, and on some days, the sea lion colony on a near by island barking away.

Mica heading up the areas classic hand crack "Meat Grinder". It's graded using the YDS like all the other highballs in the area, as it was primarily a tope rope area first. It's rated a moderate 10c/d, but boulderer beware - the top out is the crux. There are no holds, so be prepared to use your crack climbing technique for the near 20ft top out. I happened to fall topping out and flew over my spotter, and the 3 crash pads we had below, landing feet first on the granite shelf. Miraculously I walked away with nothing more than a bruised ankle, and a slight case of the 'Holy fucks!'

Below left - Ilah styling one of my favourite problems, which I renamed 'new school' (V3) after it became apparent no one knew the name of the problem, or like some of the more bouldery problems in the Eldred - it was never named. When I first started climbing, and Aaron Black was working on his mega project Call of the Granite in the Eldred, I bumped into him at the stacks on one of his 'in town' days. He showed me the line, which he felt was 'new school' compared to the others, and it may have been the first boulder problem above V0 I ever climbed. 

Below right -  Mica near the last move with the ocean a few feet away.

A short walk from The Stacks is the Dead Point, a very technical, short top roping wall that you could high ball...but you would have to deal with a double technical slab finish on the already 20+ft high barely less than vertical slab. If anyone does want to solo this wall, please let me know so I can come take some photos (and evacuate you to the hospital if you fall!)

A seagull joining us for lunch, and Jasmine checking out a more fortunate starfish.











This shot is actually not the same day, but I had to throw it in.  Nothing like a post climb swim to end a perfect day.

We left the next morning after stocking up on supplies for the Eldred Valley. Seeing as this was before I owned any trad gear, and everyone else was on vacation, we didn't have enough gear for multiple party ascents of any of the multi pitch routes. We spent our days exploring the many boulder fields, climbing on the few lines I had established (or re-established) in B-branch, and soaking up  sun beside the emerald green Eldred river.

Static Cling, V4 - The first problem on the first boulder at the entrance to the B Branch boulders. This is one of the well known original lines. Colin suggested the grade of V4, and because of that, this problem became the bench mark standard for all the grades I assigned from then on in the area. It has recently been spray painted "B BRANCH" in big blue letters - so the loggers won't miss the turn I assume.  Not the prettiest thing in the world, but at least you can't miss the area's entrance now...

Below is the John Galt project. (For those of you who haven't read Atlas Shrugged, the name is a reflection of the difficulty to get through it.) I don't know how hard this project will be, but it's definitely beyond my ability for now.

 There were two possible betas we were trying, neither of which felt very possible - but the holds are all there, so it will eventually go. Just over an arm span away from the hand hold Bryden is on is a legitimate jug, which once you've latched, will set you up for what appears to be a dyno to the perfectly flat lip - sans foot hold. It's possible there might be a different Beta, but it will take someone a lot more creative than me to figure out. I kind of hope the no foot dyno is the only way, because come one - how cool would that be?

Above are two shots that remind me how far the cleaning process has come over the years. I can't believe we even tried this problem looking back at how dirty it was. Today it's one of the cleanest lines in the forest - and it has to be, because of the intense smearing needed on your left foot and the bad slopers you desperately slap at. This problem was for sure climbed back in the day, but the name had been forgotten. We re-named it Savage Cling (V4), though it may appear with a different name in the new guide book.




On our last day in town, we headed to Powell Lake to do some sport climbing at Higgy Land. Ilah warming up on the classic 5.9, Knobulator. This route has a lot of sentimental value for me, as it was the first route I ever top roped, lead, and free soloed.




I can't wait to get back to town in May and start sending.