Newly Established 10.D at On The Fritz

John Rapp recently got the first ascent of a line he bolted at On The Fritz.

From his FB post: "Super spicy lead with ten feet between the bolts at the second crux. 5.10d 25m, a classic sport climb that involves a huge variety of moves, pumpy but has good rest".

 The route is called Clobber Globber, and from what I remember, the name came from an encounter with Fritz when he showed John and a friend his home made bug spray concoction. "You clobber them in the air, and then you globber them on the ground!" - I may not be quoting directly.

Props to John for putting up what sounds like a classic, and keeping it bold.

Update - I went and climbed this, and it is now possibly my favourite sport pitch in town. This is definitely worth the walk in even though there are only 2 routes currently - even if this were the only one there it would still be worth going to.

John Rapp leading Clobber Globber, 10.d 

New Powell River Sport Climbing Crag - On The Fritz

 A few years ago, a new sport climbing crag in the Powell River area was discovered. One bay passed Higgy Land is 3 Mile Bay,which contains an over hanging calcite streaked basalt wall very similar to The Frayed End at Higgy Land.

  One bolted route is up, and there are TR anchors on another. I just ordered a whole bunch of bolts, hangers, and anchors from MEC, and can't wait for them to arrive so I can start putting up routes. The climbing looks like it will be mostly in the moderate to slightly difficult range.

I've been there after days of rain, and even during rain, due to the angle of the wall it stays remarkably dry. This is a huge positive considering how much rain we get here. (Same numbers of days with rain as Squamish)

A heads up for anyone going there to explore - there were lots of cougar droppings above the crag, so be aware. It's isolated there, and the only person within ear shot is an older fella named Fritz who lives in his floating shack. He's apparently quite the character, and currently the trail goes right through his junk pile, but he has no objections to climbers coming around. Also, since it's further in the bush, the bugs can get pretty heavy.

                                   

Smaller wall at 'Mid Fritz' above the main wall, below the big wall.

 To get there, drive to the end of Sutherland road and make a right when it turns into dirt. There is part of the Sunshine Coast Trail there, so you will see a very obvious trail wide enough to get a good truck down. If you can't drive in, park here and it is about a 10-15 minute walk in.

 Follow the trail for some time until you are able to see the lake, and make a left at the very last fork (if you go straight at this point, you will very shortly be at a beachy area at the lake, Turn around if you hit this area.). If you properly hit the left trail, it will bring you to an old tarp and some junk, the trail to On The Fritz is behind this, and will lead to Fritz' cabin. Just keep following the trail and the crag will be obvious.

 I'm told there's also a very large crag above the main wall with the potential for multi-pitch routes, which I could see the top of but never made the trek through the bush to find the base of.