Powell River Bouldering Guide - 2020 Update free download

 An older version of this guide was made available in the Powell River Rocks guidebook. I also made an updated version available for download for a small fee.

Since that time, the amount of bouldering in the Eldred Valley has more than doubled. Many new areas have been opened. I no longer live in Powell River, and am unable to fully update the guide at this time. A new developer and I are working on a website that will include all the new lines, areas, and projects that are openly being reported. It will be a user updated interactive interface for all things bouldering in the Powell River area.  Eventually, I do plan on collecting everything and making a proper update. 

Now that the shoulder season is approaching, I'd like to release this slightly updated version with a few corrections and sent projects. It does not include the huge amount of new stuff in the Buttress boulders, the Psyche slab area, or the Sanctuary. 

An important note - Stillwater bluffs is a highly sensitive ecosystem, and an area that the Friends of Stillwater Bluffs are working hard to conserve.  Abide by all ethical guidelines in this guide. If word spreads of any climbers leaving garbage, parking incorrectly, damaging the area in anyway, or annoying residents of the neighbourhood, this guide will come down.

Please re-scrub problems if you are in the valley - if everyone retro-scrubbed just one problem per trip things would stay clean! Be very bear aware as there are occasional grizzly sightings in the area.

Enjoy!

Notice of rights - all rights reserved. No part of this PDF, including photographs, maps or text may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without consent of the author.


Some beta can be found by following my Instagram 'Krizob', or searching Eldred Valley or Powell River bouldering on Youtube. 

DOWNLOAD THE FREE GUIDE HERE

Photographer profile: Drew Leiterman - And a bunch of new routes

Drew Leiterman has been visiting the PR area for a few seasons now, not just putting up lines in the Daniel's and Eldred valleys, but taking some amazing photos along the way. Here's a few images to get you stoked, and prove that yeah, the rumors you heard are probably true. There's a lot of rock. Follow Drew on Instragram for a ton of great photos @drewmagoo66

Elliot somewhere on The Dude Wall, Super Unknown,  in the immense Daniel's Valley

John enjoying the rain protection at the Cougar Den, West Main Buttress on a beauty 5.9 splitter. 

John on P4 of the new Christel Mushroom, Eldred Valley. 

Travis and Jamie lost in a sea of vert and featured granite on the Y.S.F Wall, West Main Buttress

Sport Climbing? A dyno? New stuff on the West Main Buttress

Elliot P2 Christel Mushroom

Evan throwing down on Middle School, V5/6 ish, Stillwater.

Notes from Drew:

"Christel Mushroom"  is a project on Carag Dur we are currently working on. Travis Foster, Elliot Vercoe, John Mcmahon and myself put a few weeks work on it in June, establishing, cleaning and trying to free 6 of the pitches ground up finding pitches up to 5.12. We left this project at the end of June to go into the DRV, we have plans to continue Christel Mushroom over the rest of this and next season.

The shot of Travis dynoing is "Unprotected Sex" 5.11- sport. 7 bolt sport climb on the Y.S.F wall (Younger. Stronger. Fitter. Wall) of the West Buttress F.A Travis and Drew

The photo of Travis and Jamie cleaning and bolting a new new short sport multi pitch on Y.S.F Wall -unnamed project most likely 5.12. This route will be done before summer is over. Some of the coolest granite I have ever seen.

There is also a pic of John Mcmahon climbing "beautiful nightmare" 5.9 in the Cougar Den put up by Christie I think.

In the DVR (Daniel's) we had machete accidents, multi day rain storms, and eventually ran out of food, but not before we climbed 840m up the north face of Super Unknown on a route we dubbed "Dude Wall" 5.10 A3, so far with a party of 4 - Travis Foster, John Mcmahon, Elliot Vercoe, Drew Leiterman.

Bouldering Guide Available Now!!

I'm proud to finally release a bouldering guidebook for the Powell River area!!
*Note, a few minor updates added in 2019.

---  Scroll Down for Buy Now option --

Blurry jpeg export of the cover

   Though this guide was completed quite some time ago, an alternate and slightly less complete version is being included within the new published guide book by Christie Dionne "Powell River Rocks" (see previous post). I didn't want to release the guide on its own until the full project was completed. Like any guide, by the time it is published, new problems will have been established already. This version includes several harder problems that are listed in the print guide as projects, as well as more detailed information.

This is the the most recent information available on bouldering in the Powell River area, and can stand alone as a guide for those just interested in bouldering as it provides all the beta you need to get to the areas, how to plan a trip, and what to expect.

It will only be offered as a download, unless there is either enough demand or enough development to warrant publishing physical copies - maybe for the next update. For that reason, I'm offering this download at an extremely low price considering the amount of work that has gone into it.

 I respectfully ask that you do not share this guide for free after downloading. While it isn't perfect, this project took an immense amount of time. All of the information was started from scratch. If you can't afford $10, use less chalk or try drinking one less six pack a year and hopefully you'll be able to check out the guide. Enjoy, and happy sending!

Blurry jpeg export of the inside cover

DOWNLOAD POWELL RIVER BOULDERING 2018

Select Buy Now, pay securely with PayPal, and I will email you link to download a copy within a 24 - 48 hr period.

New Guidebook Has Arrived!

Buy Powell River Rocks Online

 The new guidebook has finally arrived! A version of my bouldering guide, re-worked by author Christie Dionne can be found within this printed guide. Christie has put in a ton of work collecting info for 14 different areas (including some alpine) for this guide. It's a massive improvement on the amount of info that was previously available through the last guide book printed over 15 years ago.
 

Powell River Rocks can also be purchased at Basecamp Coffee and West Coast Thick (both on Marine Avenue)

New Route Info Page!

Powell River is infamous for having a lack of information on its climbing. With a new guide book coming out soon, this page will serve as place to find updates and new route info. Like any guide book, by time it is published there will already be new routes that weren't recorded.
New route info found here! Click the link below

New Route Info Powell River

http://prclimbing.blogspot.ca/p/new-routes.html

Stunning New Route - Amon Rudh

Last season, the valley master Matt Hodgson teamed up with "young skywalker" Evan Guibalt to finish up a Stunning vision that Matt has been working on.  Though Amon is the furthest wall in the valley and has the longest approach, it likely holds the best potential for clean free climbing in the Eldred.

12 Rounds with Boo Boo, 14 Pitches, 5.11 C1


From Matt's FB:

"The latest PROUD addition to Amon Rudh!! A young sky walker & myself have added another 9 pitches onto the route 12 Rounds With Boo Boo.
You climb the first 4 pitches of 12 Rounds to the top of the sickle. You then climb 20 m up the corner crack until you see a perfect dyke traversing right for 3 m. You traverse the dyke (5.10)into the top of The Sir Prize. It conveniently brings you just above the off width. You climb the beautiful Prize corner into On The Verge, follow OTV for 4 pitches before heading out left to the Golden corners.
12 Rounds With Boo Boo
14 pitches 5.11 C1"

Crux of P4

P2

Brent Goodman FAing the Salvages in the Mist pitch

Evan styling the 3m traverse into the Sir Prize pitch

The aptly named Sir Prize pitch

New Area in the Eldred - The Sanctuary - Single Pitch Boulders

Lots of scrubbing has been going on across the river at 32 mile. Matt Hodgson discovered this area a few seasons ago, and has now put in a cable crossing. There's lots of mini single pitch cracks as well as potential for good bouldering, likely many highballs. Here's some photos of some of the lines.  So far about 20 crack lines have been discovered averaging in the 12m range. 

Matt H on Culture Shock. Cleaned by Evan and Zoe, FA by Kris Mutafov

A much longer than it looks in the photo hands traverse. Got pump?

Highball, route, or both?

Jesse Taplin Sends 3 Projects in B Branch

Jesse Taplin of Victoria visited the Eldred recently and made quick work of three open projects. The grades are from V7 to V9 ish.


Heres a video a quick power problem on the Communication boulder. Starts as for Doobie Sloth but moves right instead of left.

Video of Jesse finding the proper beta for the project on the back of the Azul boulder (which he graded around V8) can be seen here.

He also climbed the overhanging triangular boulder just up the trail (adjacent to the Tank boulder) which I had only tried a few times before abandoning due to a tweaked knee. I never thought much of it but I'm told that it climbs as good as any top 100 Squamish problem and is in the V7 range.

Updates will be published in the final bouldering guide - which I'll upload for sale online.

New Moderate Route on Carag Dur - Building Gondolin 5.11a

Evan Guilbault and crew have managed to push a route to the top of Carag Dur on the far right of the wall. Being on the far right the elevation is much lower, this route tallies up to only 5 pitches which will make for a great casual day out. 
 The first pitch was put up many years ago but had since grown over (along with a few other pitches in the vicinity). It's great to see this revival and hopefully it will open up the possibility of more routes on either side. 
Though Christie Dionne is working on a free route on the far left of the wall, for now this is the only route to summit Carag Dur since a young Matt Maddaloni aided straight up the middle of the wall with a friend back in '99!

From Evan's Facebook:

Eleven months later, and one more project is ticked. Thanks to everyone who helped out with this one. Colin Landeck, Evan Porter-Lockhart, Zoe Manson, Max Merkin, & Travis Foster and to the OG's who came before us.

BUILDING GONDOLIN II 5.11a, 5 pitches, 240m, FA: June 12, 2017

2nd route on Caragdur to summit ground up, first since 1999! THE line for any 10+/11- trad climber in The Valley looking for those sweet sweet splitter cracks. Easy approach, incredible varied climbing, cracks, dihedrals, pumpy, stacked and ready to go.

---------------------------------------

Route info can be found here:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/building-gondol…/112076968

Approach time 45 minutes, follow the carag dur trail to the wall and just keep going right until you see it. Hard to miss the first pitch as it's the obviously cleaned splitter.

As of now it still needs some cleaning, specifically the final 5.9 pitch. A topo will be posted on the sign board in camp when available.

This is sure to be a classic and will hopefully get a lot of traffic.

Much Scrubbing

Last season, Evan Guibalt, Zoe Manson and crew have been taking the valley by storm, cleaning new boulders, new routes, discovering entirely new walls, retro scrubbing classic multi pitch, linking big alpine ridge traverses, and getting in on some clean alpine trad action. Much more to come from this super psyched crew of youngsters.

Zoe cranking some perfect alpine granite in the Emerald valley. One valley over, accessed via the Emma Lake hut. A committing approach, multi day outing, but is sure to be a top notch adventure zone awaiting many FAs. 

A clean as can be highball (or will it be a route?) on the Carag Dur side of the Eldred river. 

Eldred Valley Bouldering Guide Download

 Here's a treat for the new year. I'm very psyched to bring you A PDF excerpt of the Eldred section from the upcoming guide book. I'll release the Stillwater section when I can- and now that I've been able to connect with local stone master Rob Richards, who is pretty much a walking guide book when his memory is jogged, many of the original names and history of the area can finally be included.

 It may not look like much, but this took far more time and effort than you might think. Starting a guide from scratch means a lot of things. It means hiking around and drawing maps (which are refined over and over), taking photos, lots and lots of editing, learning to use an open-source publishing soft-ware because I can't afford to pay for one, taking the time to seek out the history of the area and not rushing things (more will be included in the full guide), and of course, scrubbing and climbing everything. I have scrubbed and or climbed every single problem in this guide, and that of course was the best part of all.

 It would mean a lot if you could donate any amount to the cause - it will either go towards bolts for routes, gear for trail work, or publishing costs for a completed guide.

The except can be downloaded here - Eldred Valley Bouldering - Excerpt 

Donations can be made with the donation tab on the right side-bar.  In person beers are welcomed, especially if I see you in the valley.

Low quality sneak peaks at the cover and back-cover:
                     

A mini online version can be seen here (not as updated as the full link)
Mini Online Version by Christie Dionne

Enjoy!!

BIG news! New Eldred Valley Information Website

Local pioneer Christie Dionne has just published a website with all current route and area info on the Eldred Valley! I also just sent her all the info I have on bouldering in the valley and it will be added shortly. This is a huge step forward in Valley development. I have also heard that the paper guide book (which will be combined with my bouldering guide) should be ready by next season....though of course it's a huge project, so please don't quote me on any actual time line :).

 I've also recently been able to connect with one of the original climbers in Powell River, Robert Richards (who along with Colin Dionne made the first ascent of the West Main Wall). Rob is literally a walking encyclopedia on every square inch of rock ever climbed in the original days of development. With Rob's help I'll finally be able to add the history of bouldering in the area, and add names to problems that were previously climbed to give credit where its due. Things are really moving forward with getting information on the area, and with the climbing gym co-op opening this winter, I really feel like next season is going to be a big one!

View the website here:  http://powellriverrock.wixsite.com/cadmc

Video of some B Branch Boulders

A friend from Vancouver was recently in town, and despite only a few hours spent in the valley, in the rain, he managed to make some sends, including one FA, and work a few projects before the conditions became too wet.

The problems are:

FA of a V7 variation to Inverted Academics(V6)  (*Update, the V7 is now called Nameless Nirvana), instead of going straight up from the crimps, bump right to the good hold, bear down on a tiny left hand crimp, control the swing, and lock off to pull through to the lip. Super fun gymnastic problem!  (Warning: the jug that you leg bar off of is flexing, use caution)

Working the Ataraxia project (my guess is around V9)

Attempt to link  'Cheater' (V2) into the classic The Revival (V4)

A quick send of The Dark Crystal (V4)

 Most problems stayed dry despite a heavy overnight rain and off and on rain throughout the whole day.

New Problems in B branch

On a recent trip up the valley we bumped into two French climbers, currently calling Revelstoke home. They were very stoked to explore the area, and in only a few short hours we added 3 new problems, one project, and I eyed up another yet to be scrubbed.
 All new problems are right next to the parking, to the left of the Communication Eater boulder (see map and mini guide posted on the bulletin board in camp, and the binder I left in the out house), new problems not added yet.
 Anthony put up a V3 ish slab just left of the V1 on Communication eater.
 All other new problems are on the same boulder, it's visibly obvious, directly behind communication eater, so as soon as you walk in and look left you'll see Rain Away and Azule's arete.

 Photos:

Anthony on a new V3 I put up after a team effort, RainAway. To the right on the same boulder is a quality arete we put up, now named after Anthony's dog, 'Azule's Arete' - V2. 

Trying all kinds of beta on the project. This didn't quite work, but it lead to figuring out the sequence.

Me testing out my hamstring on the project, about to hit the crux swing to get around the corner - unfortunately my leg wasn't quite ready for this yet.

Anthony searching for holds.

New Routing on Carag Dur

I haven't been posting much this season due to working on opening a not for profit climbing gym co-op (which takes up 90% of my free time) -  Please feel free to support the project and find out info here - http://prclimbinggym.com/

In other news, a crew has been living in the Eldred over the season. Here's a peak at a route they've put up. Topo should be available in the camp site by now on the bulletin board.

 From Evan Guilbalt's FB post:

"Pitch 1 of "Building Gondolin" New Route using parts of Afternoon Delight going up the right side of Carag-Dur. 4-5 pitches of sustained 5.10 crack climbing...More info to come. Lots of new routing going on in The Valley."

Pitch 1 

 Though at least this pitch is actually an old route, it was long abandoned about 10 years ago. It had been recleaned about 4 years ago, but not beyond the original two pitches and had since grown over again. There were  two adjacent lines (one up the splitter and one to the right of the flake) to the same anchor. However, now, this is a 4 pitch line, and it appears that the obvious crack is what was re-cleaned. 
 To get to it, hike the carag dur trail to the top and walk right along the base of the wall. You can't miss it.

Spring Cleaning

Spring Cleaning

Just a quick snap shot of some spring cleaning up in the Valley from this weekend. I built a cedar ladder to leave in B-branch to make scrubbing easier. Here I am testing it out on the amazing A Dog Named Boo (V1) ****, which is now extra clean and ready for some laps. I gave my project 'Ataraxia' a clean as well, the line that starts underclinging the huge flake and traverses out the very shallow sloping crack. I'm recovering from a torn hamstring still and can't do much climbing still, but hope to put that project down this season.

New V0's in the Eldred, B-Branch

Spent a day in the valley with my partner Anna, who put up her first boulder problems. Two new V0's behind the giant Dog Day boulder in B Branch. One of which "Shadow Porn", is a great climb on well featured rock up a steep slab. The other, "My Humps"

No crash pad? No problem - I donated an old pad to the campsite. I hope people will see it and realize there must be some bouldering around!

 

Working for the send

New problem! Needs a good rain to clean it up more.

Great features found beneath the moss

Sending the awesome Muddy Rails (V1). A steep jug traverse that ends with a belly flop of a mantle.

Sharing is caring

Stash pad

2015 Eldred Valley Adopt A Crag

It's that time of year again! The annual Eldred Valley Adopt a Crag, where the community gets together to do trail maintenance, climb, develop, and party!

From Christie:
It’s time for this year’s annual Powell River adopt a crag! Come ready for a fun weekend of camping, working and climbing.
Due to work obligations I have move the date of this year’s Adopt a Crag to the May 30th weekend, Hope this works for everyone!
Saturday projects this year will include: 
• The West Main Buttress trail to the right side of the wall. Marking and building the trail to the base of the wall and up the right side to the base of Matt’s new route. If anyone feels super energetic and wants to mark farther, the route does go to the top of the wall.
• Psyche Slab trail maintenance and brushing.
• Repair of the log bridge in the campsite
• Splitting and stacking of firewood in the campsite. For safety reasons there will be no chainsaw work in the campsite on this weekend, no exceptions.
Bring hand tools for trail building, clippers and Work gloves. Please bring appropriate footwear for trail building, no sandals. I will be asking certain people to bring larger tools such as wheelbarrows and chainsaws.
Saturday evening after all you’re much appreciated hard work there will be a salmon bake and potluck dinner in the campground, complete with socializing around a big campfire!
Join the event below:

https://www.facebook.com/events/827908300608029/

Psyche Slab, Schizophrenia Video

https://vimeo.com/115652185  Here's a cool video of the classic 12 pitch climb Schiz (5.10). A great casual moderate, I'd say it's one of the most commonly climbed routes in the Eldred. A few shots of the campground, river, Carag Dur and the West Main Wall thrown in there as well.

Photo Spread

Lots has been going on in the Eldred Valley lately. My season has wrapped up, but here's some photos by Matt Hodgson of some projects being worked on.

Brent Goodman on a project near the swimming spot

Matt Hodgson on his Blessings in Disguise project

Big Balls Lazarski jugging on the Mad Mardigan project

Kevan Robitaille being lowered into space to jug out from a new project

Kevan starting up the short bolt ladder on the new project