Saturday, 28 July 2018

Photographer profile: Drew Leiterman - And a bunch of new routes

Drew Leiterman has been visiting the PR area for a few seasons now, not just putting up lines in the Daniel's and Eldred valleys, but taking some amazing photos along the way. Here's a few images to get you stoked, and prove that yeah, the rumors you heard are probably true. There's a lot of rock. Follow Drew on Instragram for a ton of great photos @drewmagoo66

Elliot somewhere on The Dude Wall, Super Unknown,  in the immense Daniel's Valley

John enjoying the rain protection at the Cougar Den, West Main Buttress on a beauty 5.9 splitter. 

John on P4 of the new Christel Mushroom, Eldred Valley. 

Travis and Jamie lost in a sea of vert and featured granite on the Y.S.F Wall, West Main Buttress

Sport Climbing? A dyno? New stuff on the West Main Buttress

Elliot P2 Christel Mushroom
Evan throwing down on Middle School, V5/6 ish, Stillwater.

Notes from Drew:

"Christel Mushroom"  is a project on Carag Dur we are currently working on. Travis Foster, Elliot Vercoe, John Mcmahon and myself put a few weeks work on it in June, establishing, cleaning and trying to free 6 of the pitches ground up finding pitches up to 5.12. We left this project at the end of June to go into the DRV, we have plans to continue Christel Mushroom over the rest of this and next season.

The shot of Travis dynoing is "Unprotected Sex" 5.11- sport. 7 bolt sport climb on the Y.S.F wall (Younger. Stronger. Fitter. Wall) of the West Buttress F.A Travis and Drew

The photo of Travis and Jamie cleaning and bolting a new new short sport multi pitch on Y.S.F Wall -unnamed project most likely 5.12. This route will be done before summer is over. Some of the coolest granite I have ever seen.

There is also a pic of John Mcmahon climbing "beautiful nightmare" 5.9 in the Cougar Den put up by Christie I think.

In the DVR (Daniel's) we had machete accidents, multi day rain storms, and eventually ran out of food, but not before we climbed 840m up the north face of Super Unknown on a route we dubbed "Dude Wall" 5.10 A3, so far with a party of 4 - Travis Foster, John Mcmahon, Elliot Vercoe, Drew Leiterman.

Sunday, 29 April 2018

Bouldering Guide Available Now!!

I'm proud to finally release a bouldering guidebook for the Powell River area!!
*Note, a few minor updates added in 2019.

---  Scroll Down for Buy Now option --

Blurry jpeg export of the cover
   Though this guide was completed quite some time ago, an alternate and slightly less complete version is being included within the new published guide book by Christie Dionne "Powell River Rocks" (see previous post). I didn't want to release the guide on its own until the full project was completed. Like any guide, by the time it is published, new problems will have been established already. This version includes several harder problems that are listed in the print guide as projects, as well as more detailed information.

This is the the most recent information available on bouldering in the Powell River area, and can stand alone as a guide for those just interested in bouldering as it provides all the beta you need to get to the areas, how to plan a trip, and what to expect.

It will only be offered as a download, unless there is either enough demand or enough development to warrant publishing physical copies - maybe for the next update. For that reason, I'm offering this download at an extremely low price considering the amount of work that has gone into it.

 I respectfully ask that you do not share this guide for free after downloading. While it isn't perfect, this project took an immense amount of time. All of the information was started from scratch. If you can't afford $10, use less chalk or try drinking one less six pack a year and hopefully you'll be able to check out the guide. Enjoy, and happy sending!

Blurry jpeg export of the inside cover


Select Buy Now, pay securely with PayPal, and I will email you link to download a copy within a 24 - 48 hr period.

New Guidebook Has Arrived!

Buy Powell River Rocks Online

 The new guidebook has finally arrived! A version of my bouldering guide, re-worked by author Christie Dionne can be found within this printed guide. Christie has put in a ton of work collecting info for 14 different areas (including some alpine) for this guide. It's a massive improvement on the amount of info that was previously available through the last guide book printed over 15 years ago.

Powell River Rocks can also be purchased at Basecamp Coffee and West Coast Thick (both on Marine Avenue)

New Route Info Page!

Powell River is infamous for having a lack of information on its climbing. With a new guide book coming out soon, this page will serve as place to find updates and new route info. Like any guide book, by time it is published there will already be new routes that weren't recorded.
New route info found here! Click the link below

New Route Info Powell River

Thursday, 18 January 2018

Stunning New Route - Amon Rudh

Last season, the valley master Matt Hodgson teamed up with "young skywalker" Evan Guibalt to finish up a Stunning vision that Matt has been working on.  Though Amon is the furthest wall in the valley and has the longest approach, it likely holds the best potential for clean free climbing in the Eldred.

12 Rounds with Boo Boo, 14 Pitches, 5.11 C1

From Matt's FB:

"The latest PROUD addition to Amon Rudh!! A young sky walker & myself have added another 9 pitches onto the route 12 Rounds With Boo Boo.
You climb the first 4 pitches of 12 Rounds to the top of the sickle. You then climb 20 m up the corner crack until you see a perfect dyke traversing right for 3 m. You traverse the dyke (5.10)into the top of The Sir Prize. It conveniently brings you just above the off width. You climb the beautiful Prize corner into On The Verge, follow OTV for 4 pitches before heading out left to the Golden corners.
12 Rounds With Boo Boo
14 pitches 5.11 C1"

Crux of P4


Brent Goodman FAing the Salvages in the Mist pitch

Evan styling the 3m traverse into the Sir Prize pitch
The aptly named Sir Prize pitch

Sunday, 17 December 2017

Topo for Building Gondolin

Found this on my old phone - classic napkin format topo of Evan Guibault's et al's free route, Building Gondolin on Carag Dur.

Eye Candy

A video reel with some Daniels Valley easter eggs (1:45-1:50)  and the stunning crux pitch 10 of  Sacred Stone can be seen at 2:47.

Click here --- >   Wildland Media Demo Reel