Mika on the awesome first pitch of RacknoPhobia |
You'll also notice that the view on the slab is stunning. The West Main Wall and Carag Dur protrude in the background.
Beer Ledge - Scattered Conditions (Credit John W.) - Carag Dur in back |
Detailed route info as posted on the sign heading into the climber's camp:
From left to right:
SRI - 5.10
Day Pass - 5.7
Sanitarium - 5.9
Skitsophrenia - 5.10 *** A must do!
Racknophobia - 5.11
Never Never Land - 5.11b
Solstice - 5.10
Trailer Park boys - ? (A steeper crack system start to the right of Solstice...I think, but don't take my word for it)
The next 3 routes start on an alcove up a very steep trail that branches left directly off the main trail
Pyscho Path - 5.10
White Dykes and Dirt Barbies - 5.9
Decoy - 5.10b
Scattered Conditons 5.11d or 5.11-A0 - *Not in photo, between Decoy and Falkland Crisis. Starts on a very low angle slab just passed the steep Psychopath trail, at the time of writing this too dirty to climb but the next few pitches look fine. Could traverse in from WDandDB. Topo found here: Scattered Conditions Topo
The Falkland Crisis - 5.9+ - This early line climbs the strikingly obvious dihedral feature in the middle of the slab, just right of Scattered Conditions. Although I'd like to try and clean it this season, it is currently completely grown over and best avoided.
Delusional Reality - 10.d (Hard to find, you've gotta know what you're looking for to find the access pitch which is very bushed in)
Check out Mountain Project for some topos of the routes. (Warning: Topos may not be up to date or entirely accurate, use your best judgement)
Comfortable shoes that are good for smearing are highly recommended, unless you're a total masochist of course.
Since the current guide book is over 10 years old and 90% of the routes aren't in it, it's understandable that there is little traffic. Many routes are vegetated or mossed over, particularly in the lower pitches. Once you get passed this (or find a cleaner route, - keep looking, they're there!) the climbing is top notch. Bringing a brush is always a good idea - be a good sport and scrub on your rap down!
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