Powell River Bouldering Guide - 2020 Update free download

 An older version of this guide was made available in the Powell River Rocks guidebook. I also made an updated version available for download for a small fee.

Since that time, the amount of bouldering in the Eldred Valley has more than doubled. Many new areas have been opened. I no longer live in Powell River, and am unable to fully update the guide at this time. A new developer and I are working on a website that will include all the new lines, areas, and projects that are openly being reported. It will be a user updated interactive interface for all things bouldering in the Powell River area.  Eventually, I do plan on collecting everything and making a proper update. 

Now that the shoulder season is approaching, I'd like to release this slightly updated version with a few corrections and sent projects. It does not include the huge amount of new stuff in the Buttress boulders, the Psyche slab area, or the Sanctuary. 

An important note - Stillwater bluffs is a highly sensitive ecosystem, and an area that the Friends of Stillwater Bluffs are working hard to conserve.  Abide by all ethical guidelines in this guide. If word spreads of any climbers leaving garbage, parking incorrectly, damaging the area in anyway, or annoying residents of the neighbourhood, this guide will come down.

Please re-scrub problems if you are in the valley - if everyone retro-scrubbed just one problem per trip things would stay clean! Be very bear aware as there are occasional grizzly sightings in the area.

Enjoy!

Notice of rights - all rights reserved. No part of this PDF, including photographs, maps or text may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without consent of the author.


Some beta can be found by following my Instagram 'Krizob', or searching Eldred Valley or Powell River bouldering on Youtube. 

DOWNLOAD THE FREE GUIDE HERE

Bouldering Guide Available Now!!

I'm proud to finally release a bouldering guidebook for the Powell River area!!
*Note, a few minor updates added in 2019.

---  Scroll Down for Buy Now option --

Blurry jpeg export of the cover

   Though this guide was completed quite some time ago, an alternate and slightly less complete version is being included within the new published guide book by Christie Dionne "Powell River Rocks" (see previous post). I didn't want to release the guide on its own until the full project was completed. Like any guide, by the time it is published, new problems will have been established already. This version includes several harder problems that are listed in the print guide as projects, as well as more detailed information.

This is the the most recent information available on bouldering in the Powell River area, and can stand alone as a guide for those just interested in bouldering as it provides all the beta you need to get to the areas, how to plan a trip, and what to expect.

It will only be offered as a download, unless there is either enough demand or enough development to warrant publishing physical copies - maybe for the next update. For that reason, I'm offering this download at an extremely low price considering the amount of work that has gone into it.

 I respectfully ask that you do not share this guide for free after downloading. While it isn't perfect, this project took an immense amount of time. All of the information was started from scratch. If you can't afford $10, use less chalk or try drinking one less six pack a year and hopefully you'll be able to check out the guide. Enjoy, and happy sending!

Blurry jpeg export of the inside cover

DOWNLOAD POWELL RIVER BOULDERING 2018

Select Buy Now, pay securely with PayPal, and I will email you link to download a copy within a 24 - 48 hr period.

New Guidebook Has Arrived!

Buy Powell River Rocks Online

 The new guidebook has finally arrived! A version of my bouldering guide, re-worked by author Christie Dionne can be found within this printed guide. Christie has put in a ton of work collecting info for 14 different areas (including some alpine) for this guide. It's a massive improvement on the amount of info that was previously available through the last guide book printed over 15 years ago.
 

Powell River Rocks can also be purchased at Basecamp Coffee and West Coast Thick (both on Marine Avenue)

New Route Info Page!

Powell River is infamous for having a lack of information on its climbing. With a new guide book coming out soon, this page will serve as place to find updates and new route info. Like any guide book, by time it is published there will already be new routes that weren't recorded.
New route info found here! Click the link below

New Route Info Powell River

http://prclimbing.blogspot.ca/p/new-routes.html

Eldred Valley Bouldering Guide Download

 Here's a treat for the new year. I'm very psyched to bring you A PDF excerpt of the Eldred section from the upcoming guide book. I'll release the Stillwater section when I can- and now that I've been able to connect with local stone master Rob Richards, who is pretty much a walking guide book when his memory is jogged, many of the original names and history of the area can finally be included.

 It may not look like much, but this took far more time and effort than you might think. Starting a guide from scratch means a lot of things. It means hiking around and drawing maps (which are refined over and over), taking photos, lots and lots of editing, learning to use an open-source publishing soft-ware because I can't afford to pay for one, taking the time to seek out the history of the area and not rushing things (more will be included in the full guide), and of course, scrubbing and climbing everything. I have scrubbed and or climbed every single problem in this guide, and that of course was the best part of all.

 It would mean a lot if you could donate any amount to the cause - it will either go towards bolts for routes, gear for trail work, or publishing costs for a completed guide.

The except can be downloaded here - Eldred Valley Bouldering - Excerpt 

Donations can be made with the donation tab on the right side-bar.  In person beers are welcomed, especially if I see you in the valley.

Low quality sneak peaks at the cover and back-cover:
                     

A mini online version can be seen here (not as updated as the full link)
Mini Online Version by Christie Dionne

Enjoy!!

BIG news! New Eldred Valley Information Website

Local pioneer Christie Dionne has just published a website with all current route and area info on the Eldred Valley! I also just sent her all the info I have on bouldering in the valley and it will be added shortly. This is a huge step forward in Valley development. I have also heard that the paper guide book (which will be combined with my bouldering guide) should be ready by next season....though of course it's a huge project, so please don't quote me on any actual time line :).

 I've also recently been able to connect with one of the original climbers in Powell River, Robert Richards (who along with Colin Dionne made the first ascent of the West Main Wall). Rob is literally a walking encyclopedia on every square inch of rock ever climbed in the original days of development. With Rob's help I'll finally be able to add the history of bouldering in the area, and add names to problems that were previously climbed to give credit where its due. Things are really moving forward with getting information on the area, and with the climbing gym co-op opening this winter, I really feel like next season is going to be a big one!

View the website here:  http://powellriverrock.wixsite.com/cadmc

The Lake Bluffs: Powell River's Trad Climbing Area Revival

Over the last few days the left side of The Lake Bluffs, the Sunny Side Bench Area and Crack the Whip Area have seen some serious scrubbing.

Dylan Merrick spent 3 days cleaning Dunamis (5.11b), which is now a contender for one of my favourite routes in town. I've never seen a route cleaned so thoroughly, mad props to Dylan for the quality of work.

 To get there, you simply take a left when you reach the top of the approach trail. You can't miss it.
The first time I went to check this area out, many years ago, I noticed a few of the completely over grown/unclimbeable routes and basically passed the whole area off. That was also back when I hadn't spent so much time trad climbing in Squamish, so those kind of routes didn't really stand out to me, and I was too used to bullet clean granite.

Every route there is great, with lines to rival any 4 star route at The Smoke Bluffs. I never thought I'd be saying that, but, I guess I just did. That being said, remember, this definitely isn't Sqamish. Expect some scruff, a few sand bagged grades, and routes with no anchors (Adds to the adventure).

Dylan Merrick cruising through the crux of Southern Exposure (5.9) *** Photo  © Christie Dionne 2014

There is still lots of cleaning to be done, and even a new route being worked out by one of the areas long time cleaning-veterans.

Scan of the 2002 guide book Sunnyside Bench Area topo

Below are excerpts from the old guide book of the area, some of which I have changed entirely to add more detail.

Sunny Side Bench Area + South Face

Southern Exposure (5.9)*** 
 Not in the 2002 guide book. Around the corner/up the trail from Barad-Dur. There is a rocky plateau at the  base of this route. Fun face and crack climbing, and your choice of which crux to tackle.
 There is new webbing and a rap ring on the tree above this route, safe to use as an anchor and to rap from.  A 60m rope will reach the ground for TR/rap from here. Single rack.

Barad-Dur (5.9) ***
 This route starts just to the left of a small plateau marked by a small rock bench at the far left of the crag. Starts out as blocky face climbing leading into the crack which offers good pro and excellent climbing with solid rests between moves.
 Fixed static line anchor shared with Dunamis. 60m just reaches ground for TR from anchor.

Dunamis (5.11b)****  
 To the right of Barad-Dur, at the base of a right facing corner/column. Step into the column from around the corner on higher ground (starting from the very base is out of reach of the first hold). Minimal/no gear down low means climbing to the one and only bolt several meters off the ground. Follow the obvious, stunning finger crack to the top. Bold and very reachy.
 Currently the anchor is fixed static line with two old biners on it. You can rap from this anchor to the ground as well as TR, tie knots as rope just barely reaches ground. Small gear.

 "I (Chris Amrstrong, author of the original guidebook) took a 35-foot upside down whipper attempting the first ascent of the direct variation, pulling 3 pieces of gear in the upper crux. So while the direct variation (starting as described above) hasn't been (lead)climbed yet keep in mind that the gear isn't as good up high. I had dizzy spells for months from post-whiplash effects. Definitely height dependent, bring your longest set of arms for the crux, and a helmet." - From the description in the 2002 guide book from the author and route developer.

Khazad-Dum (5.9) **
The series of broken cracks between Dunamis and Crack of Doom. Seeps down low, so wait for a few days of continuous sun. Good gear, with many possible variation. Great upper section. Scramble up to the top of the crag and build a tree anchor, belay from above for TR.

Crack of Doom (5.9 PG13) ***  [Original book says 5.8+....definitely at least a 5.9 though]
Dihedral to the right of khazad dum, joins it near the top. Follow the obvious inside corner/face holds into a scary and fun exposed block section. This climb has face climbing, hands, lay backing, and even two short chimneys up top. After the blocks, step left onto a ledge and a hidden crack provides safe gear and easier climbing. However, a fall could still mean hitting the shelf below so place your gear well.  Double rack ideal, though can be climbed with a single rack if you are into very long run outs. Big gear needed in the last several meters.
 *Roughly 45m long, and like all other routes in the area there is NO bolted  anchor. Be sure to know how to build an anchor from a tree a few meters back and belay from up top!


Crack the Whip Area

Suspended Animation (5.10 PG13)***
 Sustained climbing and small gear.

*next two climbs listed in scanned pages above


 It's very important to know that there are NO bolted anchors in the sunny side area. I found this out the hard way after on-sighting Crack of Doom (which is now one of my favourite climbs in town). I ended up half free soloing it due to the length and lack of gear I brought, and wasted a lot of time building a frankenstein anchor with what little webbing I had left off of a small tree. Not ideal at all. You may be able to build gear anchors on one or two of the routes, but I'm not sure, and given the length of some of them you'd likely be out of pieces by time you need to build an anchor either way.

Other than the fixed static rope on Dunamis and webbing on a tree above Southern Exposure, you must build your own anchors off trees.

  You either need to know how to build an anchor using your rope or lead with / haul up very long webbing or static line, which wouldn't be very practical. So learn how to build your anchor properly, and be safe. It also means that on routes such as Crack of Doom, once you get to the top, where you would expect to find anchors/rap rings, you actually have to scramble up through the moss/brush above your last piece of gear unless you bring a few #4s - so be careful. (It's easy class 4 scrambling.)  It's something you'll want to be prepared for.

The style is good traditional ethics, and something you don't see as often making it unique.  For people used to climbing in Squamish or Skaha, this may be off-putting, but the climbing is worth it.  Plus, if you're into trad climbing, the more anchor building experience you can get the better....right? (Starting to learn this for myself...)

Don't leave your pils on the ground, the slugs here move fast.

Powell River Climbing Guidebook Teaser - Bouldering

I'm working 6 days on 1 day off until late June, but on those few days off I've been working away at the bouldering section for the new guide book.

Here's another sneak peak at the work in progress.

Above is the completed map of the Bulldozer Boulders in Stillwater. The names of the boulders will likely change once I gather more information and find out what they were originally called back when they were first developed. Some really outstanding problems in this cluster, from V0 to V7.  Four star V3s and V4s in the mix too.

Number 22 is Matt Hodgson's "The Leprechaun's Wand", a contender for the hardest problem in Stillwater. Check out a brief video clip of it here.

Jesse H reaching for the finger-lock  A must do problem.
Pitch Mouth - V2/3 - Expansion Zone

Nearing the crux top out of the most classic line at The Stacks.
Meat Grinder - V2 (if you're a crack climber) V3 ish (if you're not)

Matt doing a balancing act on Whaler Rock - The Dead Point. V6? 

Another yet-unknown problem at The Dead Point. V3.
Cool mantle to a slopey top out.

Eric showing how to use proper face-smearing technique.
Un-named V2 - Second Point

Powell River Climbing - Bouldering Guide Teaser pt. 2

Instead of rushing to get this done before the end of the season, I'm going to take my time and hack away at it over the winter months and have it ready before next season. Here's another sample, the first page/first area of the Stillwater section. This page comes after the driving directions and map on how to get to the area.

 A basic printable black and white 'quick guide' version will also be made available.

Yet another project, and, a side-project

Here's a little teaser of something I decided to start working on - a Powell River/Eldred Valley bouldering guide.
 A new guide book is currently in the works, by the person by-far most qualified to make it. I told her I'd help out with the bouldering part, and so far have only produced a hand drawn map...time to step it up! My recent trip to Squamish, and purchase of the new bouldering guide book got me super inspired.

The Stacks: SeaSide Boulder
1. Old School - V3    2. Middle School - V4/5    3. New School - V3

Since my budget is 0.00$, I'm attempting this project entirely with free software. So far the main challenges are creating decent maps without photo shop. I use GIMP, but I have a huge learning curve to deal with before getting good enough to illustrate decently with it.


My plans to head up the Eldred tomorrow may not work out due to car problems, but, here's a pic from my last time up there where some actual climbing went down. Matt H on the mega project, Dog Day Boulder, B Branch.

Projecting in B Branch

For the guide, I'm hoping to be able to use icons (crimpy, reachy, highball, etc) the same way the Squamish guide does, but may have to find away around that as well. I just want to make a printable PDF really, but of course want it to be quality. Wish me luck!

 I just found enough free-ware to build my own version of Adobe Creative Suite! I'm currently using BetaCreator to overlay images with lines and starting points, GIMP to add text/format images/edit photos/create maps, LibreOffice for text drafts, and Scribus for 'publishing' it all together into a book format.

 Thank God for all those people out there who want to make the world a better, freer place! 

Here's my first draft, trying to figure out how to use Scribus.  (*PF stands for personal favourite, I've decided not to use the classic star rating system, for reason which are explained in the guide) Also, the names and First Ascents in the sample below are likely to change, as I still have to do some research.