Powell River Bouldering Guide - 2020 Update free download

 An older version of this guide was made available in the Powell River Rocks guidebook. I also made an updated version available for download for a small fee.

Since that time, the amount of bouldering in the Eldred Valley has more than doubled. Many new areas have been opened. I no longer live in Powell River, and am unable to fully update the guide at this time. A new developer and I are working on a website that will include all the new lines, areas, and projects that are openly being reported. It will be a user updated interactive interface for all things bouldering in the Powell River area.  Eventually, I do plan on collecting everything and making a proper update. 

Now that the shoulder season is approaching, I'd like to release this slightly updated version with a few corrections and sent projects. It does not include the huge amount of new stuff in the Buttress boulders, the Psyche slab area, or the Sanctuary. 

An important note - Stillwater bluffs is a highly sensitive ecosystem, and an area that the Friends of Stillwater Bluffs are working hard to conserve.  Abide by all ethical guidelines in this guide. If word spreads of any climbers leaving garbage, parking incorrectly, damaging the area in anyway, or annoying residents of the neighbourhood, this guide will come down.

Please re-scrub problems if you are in the valley - if everyone retro-scrubbed just one problem per trip things would stay clean! Be very bear aware as there are occasional grizzly sightings in the area.

Enjoy!

Notice of rights - all rights reserved. No part of this PDF, including photographs, maps or text may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without consent of the author.


Some beta can be found by following my Instagram 'Krizob', or searching Eldred Valley or Powell River bouldering on Youtube. 

DOWNLOAD THE FREE GUIDE HERE

Bouldering Guide Available Now!!

I'm proud to finally release a bouldering guidebook for the Powell River area!!
*Note, a few minor updates added in 2019.

---  Scroll Down for Buy Now option --

Blurry jpeg export of the cover

   Though this guide was completed quite some time ago, an alternate and slightly less complete version is being included within the new published guide book by Christie Dionne "Powell River Rocks" (see previous post). I didn't want to release the guide on its own until the full project was completed. Like any guide, by the time it is published, new problems will have been established already. This version includes several harder problems that are listed in the print guide as projects, as well as more detailed information.

This is the the most recent information available on bouldering in the Powell River area, and can stand alone as a guide for those just interested in bouldering as it provides all the beta you need to get to the areas, how to plan a trip, and what to expect.

It will only be offered as a download, unless there is either enough demand or enough development to warrant publishing physical copies - maybe for the next update. For that reason, I'm offering this download at an extremely low price considering the amount of work that has gone into it.

 I respectfully ask that you do not share this guide for free after downloading. While it isn't perfect, this project took an immense amount of time. All of the information was started from scratch. If you can't afford $10, use less chalk or try drinking one less six pack a year and hopefully you'll be able to check out the guide. Enjoy, and happy sending!

Blurry jpeg export of the inside cover

DOWNLOAD POWELL RIVER BOULDERING 2018

Select Buy Now, pay securely with PayPal, and I will email you link to download a copy within a 24 - 48 hr period.

New Guidebook Has Arrived!

Buy Powell River Rocks Online

 The new guidebook has finally arrived! A version of my bouldering guide, re-worked by author Christie Dionne can be found within this printed guide. Christie has put in a ton of work collecting info for 14 different areas (including some alpine) for this guide. It's a massive improvement on the amount of info that was previously available through the last guide book printed over 15 years ago.
 

Powell River Rocks can also be purchased at Basecamp Coffee and West Coast Thick (both on Marine Avenue)

Topo for Building Gondolin

Found this on my old phone - classic napkin format topo of Evan Guibault's et al's free route, Building Gondolin on Carag Dur.

FA of Another New Big Wall - Daniels Valley

Evan Guilbault and Colin Landeck put a route up in the Daniels this past summer. That's two walls climbed now, could be the beginning of something...


From Evan Guibault's FB.


"If you would have told me two weeks ago that I was about to put up a 5000ft technical rock route, I probably would have shyly smiled while my eyes scanned the horizon and gently changed the subject. This topo validates years and years of vision honed in the mythical Coast Range, my home. Sacred Stone exists; a dream that is real. 27 pitches of dream climbing. 1600 metres, 5250 ft....I'm ready for more."

"BEEEEAUUUUTIFUL BIG WALLS!!!! Young Stokemaster Colin Landeck & myself have just returned from the adventure of our lives. 11 days in literal heaven on earth...paradise; 5 days on the Big Stone; 3 days of continuous, perfect, magic flow ascending a stone no others had ever before...1600m (5250 feet) of technical rock climbing brought us to the summit of The Super Unknown, one of multiple gargantuan granite big walls in the Daniels River Valley. Thank you to all my loved ones for all your support, the power of vision cannot be underestimated, the Super Unknown goes. Climbed in 27 large pitches, Over 20 of 27 being FIVE STAR ***** Free climbing GLORY. Zero bolts were installed on this ascent, they aren't needed. Nothing in my life has ever brought me higher. The trails are built, the line is up, the stoke is high.
FA:
SACRED STONE VI 5.10 A1 1600m 
The Super Unknown
Daniels River Valley
Aug 10, 2017."

Heading towards the Amphitheatre

Bug net beta

New Moderate Route on Carag Dur - Building Gondolin 5.11a

Evan Guilbault and crew have managed to push a route to the top of Carag Dur on the far right of the wall. Being on the far right the elevation is much lower, this route tallies up to only 5 pitches which will make for a great casual day out. 
 The first pitch was put up many years ago but had since grown over (along with a few other pitches in the vicinity). It's great to see this revival and hopefully it will open up the possibility of more routes on either side. 
Though Christie Dionne is working on a free route on the far left of the wall, for now this is the only route to summit Carag Dur since a young Matt Maddaloni aided straight up the middle of the wall with a friend back in '99!

From Evan's Facebook:

Eleven months later, and one more project is ticked. Thanks to everyone who helped out with this one. Colin Landeck, Evan Porter-Lockhart, Zoe Manson, Max Merkin, & Travis Foster and to the OG's who came before us.

BUILDING GONDOLIN II 5.11a, 5 pitches, 240m, FA: June 12, 2017

2nd route on Caragdur to summit ground up, first since 1999! THE line for any 10+/11- trad climber in The Valley looking for those sweet sweet splitter cracks. Easy approach, incredible varied climbing, cracks, dihedrals, pumpy, stacked and ready to go.

---------------------------------------

Route info can be found here:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/building-gondol…/112076968

Approach time 45 minutes, follow the carag dur trail to the wall and just keep going right until you see it. Hard to miss the first pitch as it's the obviously cleaned splitter.

As of now it still needs some cleaning, specifically the final 5.9 pitch. A topo will be posted on the sign board in camp when available.

This is sure to be a classic and will hopefully get a lot of traffic.

Eldred Valley Bouldering Guide Download

 Here's a treat for the new year. I'm very psyched to bring you A PDF excerpt of the Eldred section from the upcoming guide book. I'll release the Stillwater section when I can- and now that I've been able to connect with local stone master Rob Richards, who is pretty much a walking guide book when his memory is jogged, many of the original names and history of the area can finally be included.

 It may not look like much, but this took far more time and effort than you might think. Starting a guide from scratch means a lot of things. It means hiking around and drawing maps (which are refined over and over), taking photos, lots and lots of editing, learning to use an open-source publishing soft-ware because I can't afford to pay for one, taking the time to seek out the history of the area and not rushing things (more will be included in the full guide), and of course, scrubbing and climbing everything. I have scrubbed and or climbed every single problem in this guide, and that of course was the best part of all.

 It would mean a lot if you could donate any amount to the cause - it will either go towards bolts for routes, gear for trail work, or publishing costs for a completed guide.

The except can be downloaded here - Eldred Valley Bouldering - Excerpt 

Donations can be made with the donation tab on the right side-bar.  In person beers are welcomed, especially if I see you in the valley.

Low quality sneak peaks at the cover and back-cover:
                     

A mini online version can be seen here (not as updated as the full link)
Mini Online Version by Christie Dionne

Enjoy!!

BIG news! New Eldred Valley Information Website

Local pioneer Christie Dionne has just published a website with all current route and area info on the Eldred Valley! I also just sent her all the info I have on bouldering in the valley and it will be added shortly. This is a huge step forward in Valley development. I have also heard that the paper guide book (which will be combined with my bouldering guide) should be ready by next season....though of course it's a huge project, so please don't quote me on any actual time line :).

 I've also recently been able to connect with one of the original climbers in Powell River, Robert Richards (who along with Colin Dionne made the first ascent of the West Main Wall). Rob is literally a walking encyclopedia on every square inch of rock ever climbed in the original days of development. With Rob's help I'll finally be able to add the history of bouldering in the area, and add names to problems that were previously climbed to give credit where its due. Things are really moving forward with getting information on the area, and with the climbing gym co-op opening this winter, I really feel like next season is going to be a big one!

View the website here:  http://powellriverrock.wixsite.com/cadmc

First Ascent of Stillwater Project

On his way back to the ferry, despite days of rain, Tyler Thompson managed to snag the first ascent of the project he had tried earlier on the main boulder in the Bulldozer cluster in Stillwater.

This problem is to the right of The Leprechaun's Wand on the overhanging face - though still a contender for hardest problem in the area as it has yet to see a repeat, they are very different styles. TLW being very technical, this new problem is one huge power move, to a very committing final move.

To start, there is a low right hand undercling, and a left hand on the sloping arete. Smear a foot and gun for the only obvious hold.

He named it Bump Up the Jam, and suggested a grade of V8/9.

Tyler recently sent Black Hole (V11) in Squamish, known for a notoriously hard bump to a tiny crimp - yet said this send involved one of the hardest single moves he's done in a while.

Here's a video!
Bump Up The Jam, V8/9, First Ascent

Psyche Slab - The Most Developed Wall in the Valley * Updated

The most accessible wall in the valley, it's host to 15 free multi pitch routes (from 3 to 12 pitches), and 2 single pitch routes. Pysche Slab is by far the most developed, most climbed wall in the valley. Due to it being a slab, though at times near vertical, it lends itself to easy to (mostly) moderate free climbing. 

Mika on the awesome first pitch of RacknoPhobia

You'll also notice that the view on the slab is stunning. The West Main Wall and Carag Dur protrude in the background.

Beer Ledge - Scattered Conditions (Credit John W.) - Carag Dur in back

Detailed route info as posted on the sign heading into the climber's camp:

From left to right:

SRI - 5.10 

Day Pass  - 5.7


Sanitarium - 5.9

Skitsophrenia - 5.10 *** A must do!

Racknophobia - 5.11

Never Never Land - 5.11b

Solstice  - 5.10

Trailer Park boys - ? (A steeper crack system start to the right of Solstice...I think, but don't take my word for it) 

 The next 3 routes start on an alcove up a very steep trail that branches left directly off the main trail

Pyscho Path - 5.10

White Dykes and Dirt Barbies - 5.9

Decoy - 5.10b

Scattered Conditons  5.11d or 5.11-A0   - *Not in photo, between Decoy and Falkland Crisis. Starts on a very low angle slab just passed the steep Psychopath trail, at the time of writing this too dirty to climb but the next few pitches look fine.  Could traverse in from WDandDB.  Topo found here: Scattered Conditions Topo

The Falkland Crisis - 5.9+  - This early line climbs the strikingly obvious dihedral feature in the middle of the slab, just right of Scattered Conditions. Although I'd like to try and clean it this season, it is currently completely grown over and best avoided. 

Delusional Reality - 10.d   (Hard to find, you've gotta know what you're looking for to find the access pitch which is very bushed in)

Check out Mountain Project for some topos of the routes.  (Warning: Topos may not be up to date or entirely accurate, use your best judgement)

Comfortable shoes that are good for smearing are highly recommended, unless you're a total masochist of course.

 Since the current guide book is over 10 years old and 90% of the routes aren't in it, it's understandable that there is little traffic. Many routes are vegetated or mossed over, particularly in the lower pitches. Once you get passed this (or find a cleaner route, - keep looking, they're there!) the climbing is top notch.  Bringing a brush is always a good idea - be a good sport and scrub on your rap down!

Higgy Land: New Routes

 I bolted a much looked at line at the Frayed End (or Rippin Area) at Higgy Land on Saturday April 18th. It's up for grabs, seeing as I won't get a chance to try to red point it for probably a few months. I rope soloed all the sections, but didn't link it, and had to leave town the next day. It felt in the 12.c range, but it's hard to say without linking everything on lead.

Drilling in the roof! 

  The line pulls through the big roof smack in the middle of the wall (first crux), continues up though the brown streak on crimps, blocks, a pinch, under cling, and a sloper, then thins out before the final and hardest crux right after the last bolt. You end up pulling up hard on a weird uneven left hand crimp and a paper thin micro crimp for your right hand. Super quality, especially for Higgy Land where rock can be loose (random foot chips are likely to still break around the roof, but the main foot hold is rock solid)

The awkward first bolt

Although I haven't officially done the FA yet, I don't mind if anyone else wants to get on it and do it - however, I'd like the name to be reserved for Late Bloomer.
 The name comes from the fact that to me it's the most obvious line in the area, and is only being put up now. Also, the fact that I've started going back to school late in life, so it's kind of a tribute for those two things coming together.

Tracy patiently belaying/being pulled into the air as I bolt the final few (I needed a belayer for positioning in the roof I couldn't do solo)

Late Bloomer - Project

 Over last season, I retro bolted 3 other routes and one old trad line was given a more direct mixed variation.

 Tweaky Face (5.10d?) (old guide gives a 10+, felt like at least a 10.d) Very fun route, definitely a must do.  The zig zag nature of the start makes it awkward to clean on rappel, probably easier if someone seconds it.

F*** I Love It (5.10b?) already had an anchor and a few bolts, but you couldn't get a piece of gear in until half way up the route, so it was basically a free solo that saw little to no traffic at all. The old book says 5.11 and "Much harder than it looks!" - though I found it pretty easy. It's 5.9 until a very straight forward crux, and then more like 5.8 until the end. The crux is bouldery, though the route in it's entirety I would say isn't harder than 10.b  It was given 3 stars, though in my opinion it's not very interesting. Top half is run out, but easy.

Gotta Like It (5.9) Starts the same as the above but veers left to follow the more obvious crack/rail feature, and is a much better route despite only getting one star in the old book.
 I had to space the bolts out a bit due to the nature of the rock, but it adds to the excitement. The crux is tricky, with very poor friction slopers. After a break on a ledge, the last half climbs slightly over-hanging edges before a final yet easier crux.
 Shared anchor with F-I love It (use a long draw on the last bolt to make it easier to clean)

Whatever Pal (Variation?) (5.8) - Mixed, a few mid sized cams. This is an awesome route! It has all kinds of interesting climbing in it, and though you could easily veer off route at a few spots, the natural direct line is the best. You can also traverse right towards the end to finish on Whatever (5.8) to change things up a little. Shared anchor.

Powell River Climbing Guidebook Teaser - Bouldering

I'm working 6 days on 1 day off until late June, but on those few days off I've been working away at the bouldering section for the new guide book.

Here's another sneak peak at the work in progress.

Above is the completed map of the Bulldozer Boulders in Stillwater. The names of the boulders will likely change once I gather more information and find out what they were originally called back when they were first developed. Some really outstanding problems in this cluster, from V0 to V7.  Four star V3s and V4s in the mix too.

Number 22 is Matt Hodgson's "The Leprechaun's Wand", a contender for the hardest problem in Stillwater. Check out a brief video clip of it here.

Jesse H reaching for the finger-lock  A must do problem.
Pitch Mouth - V2/3 - Expansion Zone

Nearing the crux top out of the most classic line at The Stacks.
Meat Grinder - V2 (if you're a crack climber) V3 ish (if you're not)

Matt doing a balancing act on Whaler Rock - The Dead Point. V6? 

Another yet-unknown problem at The Dead Point. V3.
Cool mantle to a slopey top out.

Eric showing how to use proper face-smearing technique.
Un-named V2 - Second Point

Khartoum Road Closure

The road to the Khartoum Valley wall has been de-activated.  It is still easily accessible, but for now, you must park your vehicle and hike an extra 45 minutes or so along the road. Unfortunately this detracts from the appeal of Khartoum having such easy access, though at least it is an easy walk.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/khartoum-/106861637

The de-activation is just passed 19 mile on the 3rd lake road. After walking passed this, stay on your left when you come to the next fork - the next road is on your left after a few minutes and trends uphill. This is the '4x4' road as described in the above link.

You'll know when you're at the climbers camp site, as it sits atop a cliff with a great view of the side of the wall. Continue up the road (not through the camp/waterfall) for 40m and follow the trail at right to the wall. 

Must Do Climbs - Volume 1

Anna working the rail

Instead of doing an area profile of each area in town, which would take a whole lot of time and work and people to photograph - I'm going to do a 'best of' list. This is the kind of project that will probably take several seasons to cover, but, it gives me something fun to constantly have on the back burner.



For the first installment, I'm going with one of my favourite climbs - Knobulator (direct) 5.9

Strechin' out mid route

Located in the Destruction Zone at Higgy land, it's the first climb you come to through the short trail from the parking spot.



This was the first route I ever top-roped, lead, and free soloed. It's also the route that many of my friends, and likely many other local climbers discovered as their first sport climb.  The rock quality is bomber, the opening moves follow a pure sequence, and the direct route through the roof is exposed and mega fun.

A grainy low light shot of Alyssa making the early reachy move

The Mainline (VI 5.11/A4+), the first ascent of the West Main Wall - A Teaser

 The other day I found myself staring at a rough topo for the mega project Rob and Colin put up on the West Main Wall in the Eldred ten years ago and thinking to myself, "Jesus Christ."

 This is a seriously bad ass route. There are two reasons for this. A) It was the first ascent of the West Main Wall.  B) It was done with style, and it's hard. We're talking pitches of A3 and an intimidating sounding pitch of A4+.  For those of you who don't know how Aid climbing grades work, A3 is right around where things start to get serious.

Unknown climber on Pysche Slab, West Main Wall in background - Unknown

Allow me to copy and paste a detailed explanation of the grade.
 'A3: Hard aid: testing methods required. Involves many tenuous placements in a row. Generally solid placements (which could hold a fall) found within a pitch. Long fall potential up to 50 feet (6-8 placements ripping), but generally safe from serious danger. Usually several hours required to complete a pitch, due to complexity of placements. Examples: The Pacific Ocean Wall lower crux pitches (30 feet between original bolts on manky fixed copperheads), Standing Rock in the desert (the crux being a traverse on the first pitch with very marginal gear with 30 foot swing potential into a corner).'

 But wait! There's more! Following is a slightly less strenuous A2 pitch, some moderate free climbing, and then the ominous A4+ pitch that brings them into The Arch of Time, the striking arch feature smack dab in the middle of the mainer.

Here's how A4+ is described'

Rob (or is it Colin?) leading the 5.10+ fifth pitch 

'A4+: More serious than A4. these leads generally take many hours to complete and require the climber to endure long periods of uncertainty and fear, often requiring a ballet-like efficiency of movement in order not to upset the tenuous integrity of marginal placements. Examples: the "Welcome to Wyoming" pitch (formerly the"Psycho Killer" pitch) on the Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Cap, requiring 50 feet of climbing through a loose, broken, and rotten Diorite roof with very marginal, scary placements like stoppers wedged in between two loose, shifting, rope-slicing slivers of rock, all this over a big jagged loose ledge which would surely break and maim bones. The pitch is then followed by 100 feet of hooking interspersed with a few rivets to the belay.'

  And that's not all folks...immediately after this comes the last A3 pitch of the route, through the very steep looking arch of Time. A feature that begs to be climbed.

 Below is a teaser from an article I found written by the late Colin Dionne himself. I never knew this existed and am really excited to find a written version of his story. It can't compare to the times I've heard him tell stories of this epic over the fire in the Eldred, with such intense passion, re-enactments, sound effects, and rumbling laughter that came with all of Colin's stories - but it's detailed and first hand, and I'm happy to be able to share it.

"The classic first ascent of the formation The West Main Wall. This 18 pitch mixed aid/free project was completed capsule style by Rob Richards and Colin Dionne in 1993, following an epic retreat in 1992. The epitome of good style this hard core route still awaits a repeat. Only eighteen bolts were used, many of them quarter inchers. Definitely not a route for the faint of heart!

When Rob Richards and I set out to climb the West Main Wall, we were possessed with a desire to meet the wall head on. Our equipment and techniques were for the most part antiquated, having been cultured from the collected works of Royal Robbins and "Batso" Harding. The spring of ’92 had been fruitful, the Lake bluffs had already seen 30 new routes put up by Rob and I. We were strong. We had no Idea of the scope of our desire.

We began fixing ropes in mid May. The first pitch fell to Rob who easily dispatched the easy left facing corner (5.7). I climbed up to the large edge Rob was belaying on and called it an l-edge. I then set out on the second pitch, which was more left facing corner. This pitch found me lay-backing 5.10 while digging vigorously with the pick of my hammer to unearth finger locks. Occasional pro and no falls got me to the small sloping feature that became the second belay (5.10). I hand drilled the first bolt on the route to back up the scattered mank that made up the rest of the belay. The first two pitches fixed, we returned to town.

Shot of the Mainline - Mad buggers project now connects to  Call of the Granite

The third pitch started the fun, the corner became much steeper, and the crack became thinner. Many knife blades and RPs later Rob finally fixed the third with a two and a half bolt anchor (5.9A3). Two weekends were spent on this pitch, both involving rainouts on Sunday. On our next foray I sent the fourth pitch after a long day of..."(To be continued!)

 Stay tuned for the rest of the story in another post. (I found it on a site where I have to pay for the rest...which I can't do right now due to an issue with my PayPal account, but I will post the rest when I can!)

 Also coming soon, the story of the first ascent of Carag Dur...a very impressive, very hard aid route.

Khartoum Valley: Powell River's Other Valley

Khartoum Valley big wall in the mist

As if 6 walls in the Eldred weren't enough granite for one town, the locals just had to go and put up stellar routes in a whole other valley. The Khartoum Valley is currently home to 3 longer multi pitch routes, and a few routes in the 1 to 3 pitch ranges as well.

   Oh, it also happens to be closer to town. Plus, all routes so far go free.



 I never had the chance to check it out last season, which makes it a top priority this summer. Stay tuned for more posts on this place, I'm sure I'll have a few.

Routes - so far

The routes that have gone up so far look beautiful, and there's sure to be more to come. Huge props to Andy for developing the area.

I'm told the wall is very well featured and has some stellar crack systems. Surely more routes to come.

Photo (and route!) credits: Andy D and Matt H.

For route info click here

Great new Beta source

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/powell-river/106189297 - This is currently the best resource available online for new routes that won't be found in the old guide book. Also, I'm not one to spread rumors....but rumor has it a new guide book is on the way in the near future. I expect it will be at least twice the size, and since immediately after it gets published there will be new routes going up, be sure to book mark mountain project for all your beta needs.

The old school Powell River Climbing

As I said in my last post, there are indeed resources available online. Some of them are not so up to date, but some may still find them very useful.

http://www.coastalbc.com/climb/st01a.htm  - The original PR climbing page. I think this is the first thing I ever came across when I was a young grom drooling over some Aaron Black photos I saw in a Mamut gear catalogue that featured breath taking photos of the valley. I never knew the valley existed, and had to do a double take when I read the photo caption "Powell River". I even asked my dad if there was another Powell River somewhere, in the states maybe, but he didn't think so. I remember my heart speeding up and immediately going to my computer to Google this mythical valley. This is what came up then, and is still what comes up now. One important yet very regrettable edit to point out however is  that the contact information listed on this page is no longer available, as Colin tragically passed away in the summer of 2011. This site serves as a reminder of some of what Colin and crew accomplished in the early years. Colin was the driving force behind the development of the area, and was respected and loved by everyone. His passion and efforts, his beaming personality and humble persona will never be forgotten. I hope this blog can be a continuation of the torch Colin has passed on - ignited by the fire he had for climbing and developing the area.