New route at the Lake Bluffs + A short film spoofing Planet Earth

Hit up the lake bluffs yesterday, and lead up Christie Dionne's new route, which I believe is called Memories....or possibly Mammaries....but probably Memories. Beautiful route that starts up a massive flake then goes right up more of a face. Bomber gear and very good quality rock. Felt to be in the 5.9 range. Could be a classic. - Come to think of it, that might not have even been the route... Man I can't wait for the new guide book! So much less guessing...

I then attempted an on-sight of what may have been either Charged With Vanity (the old guide book calls this route both 11+ and 12+), or the aid line Perserverence (C4) which turned out to be a little too lichen covered. It was a beautiful, exposed arete split into 3 sections by two lower horizontal cracks, before continuing passed a bolt on what appeared to be bouldery face climbing.

It felt too difficult to be 11+, so 12+ would be likely if it were Charged with Vanity.  In the old guide book there is no route with a bolt in that area...This line also had a fixed pin, which is what makes me believe it was Perserverance. If that's the case, I think that if it were scrubbed, it could go free. Just another project to add to the endless list. However, the description of both of those climbs in the old book doesn't fit the line at all....so who knows.

Whatever it was, it was really beautiful. There's a bail biner on a fixed pin up for grabs now, if anyone's keen.

In unrelated news, here's possibly the most original short climbing film I've ever seen. Granite Earth

I'm heading up the Eldred for a day, hopefully a few projects will go down - but it's been pretty hot out. Might be another lake day.