Monday, 23 May 2016

Spring Cleaning

Spring Cleaning

Just a quick snap shot of some spring cleaning up in the Valley from this weekend. I built a cedar ladder to leave in B-branch to make scrubbing easier. Here I am testing it out on the amazing A Dog Named Boo (V1) ****, which is now extra clean and ready for some laps. I gave my project 'Ataraxia' a clean as well, the line that starts underclinging the huge flake and traverses out the very shallow sloping crack. I'm recovering from a torn hamstring still and can't do much climbing still, but hope to put that project down this season.

Psyche Slab - The Most Developed Wall in the Valley * Updated

The most accessible wall in the valley, it's host to 15 free multi pitch routes (from 3 to 12 pitches), and 2 single pitch routes. Pysche Slab is by far the most developed, most climbed wall in the valley. Due to it being a slab, though at times near vertical, it lends itself to easy to (mostly) moderate free climbing. 

Mika on the awesome first pitch of RacknoPhobia

You'll also notice that the view on the slab is stunning. The West Main Wall and Carag Dur protrude in the background.
Beer Ledge - Scattered Conditions (Credit John W.) - Carag Dur in back

Detailed route info as posted on the sign heading into the climber's camp:

From left to right:

SRI - 5.10 

Day Pass  - 5.7

Sanitarium - 5.9

Skitsophrenia - 5.10 *** A must do!

Racknophobia - 5.11

Never Never Land - 5.11b

Solstice  - 5.10

Trailer Park boys - ? (A steeper crack system start to the right of Solstice...I think, but don't take my word for it) 

 The next 3 routes start on an alcove up a very steep trail that branches left directly off the main trail

Pyscho Path - 5.10

White Dykes and Dirt Barbies - 5.9

Decoy - 5.10b

Scattered Conditons  5.11d or 5.11-A0
  - *Not in photo, between Decoy and Falkland Crisis. Starts on a very low angle slab just passed the steep Psychopath trail, at the time of writing this too dirty to climb but the next few pitches look fine.  Could traverse in from WDandDB.  Topo found here: Scattered Conditions Topo

The Falkland Crisis - 5.9+  - 
This early line climbs the strikingly obvious dihedral feature in the middle of the slab, just right of Scattered Conditions. Although I'd like to try and clean it this season, it is currently completely grown over and best avoided. 

Delusional Reality - 10.d
  (Hard to find, you've gotta know what you're looking for to find the access pitch which is very bushed in)

Check out Mountain Project for some topos of the routes.  (Warning: Topos may not be up to date or entirely accurate, use your best judgement)

Comfortable shoes that are good for smearing are highly recommended, unless you're a total masochist of course.

 Since the current guide book is over 10 years old and 90% of the routes aren't in it, it's understandable that there is little traffic. Many routes are vegetated or mossed over, particularly in the lower pitches. Once you get passed this (or find a cleaner route, - keep looking, they're there!) the climbing is top notch.  Bringing a brush is always a good idea - be a good sport and scrub on your rap down!

Monday, 9 May 2016

New V0's in the Eldred, B-Branch

Spent a day in the valley with my partner Anna, who put up her first boulder problems. Two new V0's behind the giant Dog Day boulder in B Branch. One of which "Shadow Porn", is a great climb on well featured rock up a steep slab. The other, "My Humps"

No crash pad? No problem - I donated an old pad to the campsite. I hope people will see it and realize there must be some bouldering around!

Working for the send

New problem! Needs a good rain to clean it up more.

Great features found beneath the moss

Sending the awesome Muddy Rails (V1). A steep jug traverse that ends with a belly flop of a mantle.

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Stash pad