Eldred Valley Bouldering Guide Download

 Here's a treat for the new year. I'm very psyched to bring you A PDF excerpt of the Eldred section from the upcoming guide book. I'll release the Stillwater section when I can- and now that I've been able to connect with local stone master Rob Richards, who is pretty much a walking guide book when his memory is jogged, many of the original names and history of the area can finally be included.

 It may not look like much, but this took far more time and effort than you might think. Starting a guide from scratch means a lot of things. It means hiking around and drawing maps (which are refined over and over), taking photos, lots and lots of editing, learning to use an open-source publishing soft-ware because I can't afford to pay for one, taking the time to seek out the history of the area and not rushing things (more will be included in the full guide), and of course, scrubbing and climbing everything. I have scrubbed and or climbed every single problem in this guide, and that of course was the best part of all.

 It would mean a lot if you could donate any amount to the cause - it will either go towards bolts for routes, gear for trail work, or publishing costs for a completed guide.

The except can be downloaded here - Eldred Valley Bouldering - Excerpt 

Donations can be made with the donation tab on the right side-bar.  In person beers are welcomed, especially if I see you in the valley.

Low quality sneak peaks at the cover and back-cover:
                     

A mini online version can be seen here (not as updated as the full link)
Mini Online Version by Christie Dionne

Enjoy!!

BIG news! New Eldred Valley Information Website

Local pioneer Christie Dionne has just published a website with all current route and area info on the Eldred Valley! I also just sent her all the info I have on bouldering in the valley and it will be added shortly. This is a huge step forward in Valley development. I have also heard that the paper guide book (which will be combined with my bouldering guide) should be ready by next season....though of course it's a huge project, so please don't quote me on any actual time line :).

 I've also recently been able to connect with one of the original climbers in Powell River, Robert Richards (who along with Colin Dionne made the first ascent of the West Main Wall). Rob is literally a walking encyclopedia on every square inch of rock ever climbed in the original days of development. With Rob's help I'll finally be able to add the history of bouldering in the area, and add names to problems that were previously climbed to give credit where its due. Things are really moving forward with getting information on the area, and with the climbing gym co-op opening this winter, I really feel like next season is going to be a big one!

View the website here:  http://powellriverrock.wixsite.com/cadmc

First Ascent of Stillwater Project

On his way back to the ferry, despite days of rain, Tyler Thompson managed to snag the first ascent of the project he had tried earlier on the main boulder in the Bulldozer cluster in Stillwater.

This problem is to the right of The Leprechaun's Wand on the overhanging face - though still a contender for hardest problem in the area as it has yet to see a repeat, they are very different styles. TLW being very technical, this new problem is one huge power move, to a very committing final move.

To start, there is a low right hand undercling, and a left hand on the sloping arete. Smear a foot and gun for the only obvious hold.

He named it Bump Up the Jam, and suggested a grade of V8/9.

Tyler recently sent Black Hole (V11) in Squamish, known for a notoriously hard bump to a tiny crimp - yet said this send involved one of the hardest single moves he's done in a while.

Here's a video!
Bump Up The Jam, V8/9, First Ascent

Video of some B Branch Boulders

A friend from Vancouver was recently in town, and despite only a few hours spent in the valley, in the rain, he managed to make some sends, including one FA, and work a few projects before the conditions became too wet.

The problems are:

FA of a V7 variation to Inverted Academics(V6)  (*Update, the V7 is now called Nameless Nirvana), instead of going straight up from the crimps, bump right to the good hold, bear down on a tiny left hand crimp, control the swing, and lock off to pull through to the lip. Super fun gymnastic problem!  (Warning: the jug that you leg bar off of is flexing, use caution)

Working the Ataraxia project (my guess is around V9)

Attempt to link  'Cheater' (V2) into the classic The Revival (V4)

A quick send of The Dark Crystal (V4)

 Most problems stayed dry despite a heavy overnight rain and off and on rain throughout the whole day.

Video of a classic and a project, Stillwater

Tyler Thompson doing a lap on the classic V2 highball, The Blade, Bulldozer Boulders, Stillwater.
Plus a quick clip of an attempt at a project up the steeper right face.
Please excuse the poor filming, It's my first day.

Just some pretty pics

View from top of moss mountain, just outside the bulldozer boulders. Stillwater

Anna on Appetite for Destruction 5.10 Higgy Land

New Problems in B branch

On a recent trip up the valley we bumped into two French climbers, currently calling Revelstoke home. They were very stoked to explore the area, and in only a few short hours we added 3 new problems, one project, and I eyed up another yet to be scrubbed.
 All new problems are right next to the parking, to the left of the Communication Eater boulder (see map and mini guide posted on the bulletin board in camp, and the binder I left in the out house), new problems not added yet.
 Anthony put up a V3 ish slab just left of the V1 on Communication eater.
 All other new problems are on the same boulder, it's visibly obvious, directly behind communication eater, so as soon as you walk in and look left you'll see Rain Away and Azule's arete.

 Photos:

Anthony on a new V3 I put up after a team effort, RainAway. To the right on the same boulder is a quality arete we put up, now named after Anthony's dog, 'Azule's Arete' - V2. 

Trying all kinds of beta on the project. This didn't quite work, but it lead to figuring out the sequence.

Me testing out my hamstring on the project, about to hit the crux swing to get around the corner - unfortunately my leg wasn't quite ready for this yet.

Anthony searching for holds.