Powell River Bouldering Guide - 2020 Update free download

 An older version of this guide was made available in the Powell River Rocks guidebook. I also made an updated version available for download for a small fee.

Since that time, the amount of bouldering in the Eldred Valley has more than doubled. Many new areas have been opened. I no longer live in Powell River, and am unable to fully update the guide at this time. A new developer and I are working on a website that will include all the new lines, areas, and projects that are openly being reported. It will be a user updated interactive interface for all things bouldering in the Powell River area.  Eventually, I do plan on collecting everything and making a proper update. 

Now that the shoulder season is approaching, I'd like to release this slightly updated version with a few corrections and sent projects. It does not include the huge amount of new stuff in the Buttress boulders, the Psyche slab area, or the Sanctuary. 

An important note - Stillwater bluffs is a highly sensitive ecosystem, and an area that the Friends of Stillwater Bluffs are working hard to conserve.  Abide by all ethical guidelines in this guide. If word spreads of any climbers leaving garbage, parking incorrectly, damaging the area in anyway, or annoying residents of the neighbourhood, this guide will come down.

Please re-scrub problems if you are in the valley - if everyone retro-scrubbed just one problem per trip things would stay clean! Be very bear aware as there are occasional grizzly sightings in the area.

Enjoy!

Notice of rights - all rights reserved. No part of this PDF, including photographs, maps or text may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without consent of the author.


Some beta can be found by following my Instagram 'Krizob', or searching Eldred Valley or Powell River bouldering on Youtube. 

DOWNLOAD THE FREE GUIDE HERE

Photographer profile: Drew Leiterman - And a bunch of new routes

Drew Leiterman has been visiting the PR area for a few seasons now, not just putting up lines in the Daniel's and Eldred valleys, but taking some amazing photos along the way. Here's a few images to get you stoked, and prove that yeah, the rumors you heard are probably true. There's a lot of rock. Follow Drew on Instragram for a ton of great photos @drewmagoo66

Elliot somewhere on The Dude Wall, Super Unknown,  in the immense Daniel's Valley

John enjoying the rain protection at the Cougar Den, West Main Buttress on a beauty 5.9 splitter. 

John on P4 of the new Christel Mushroom, Eldred Valley. 

Travis and Jamie lost in a sea of vert and featured granite on the Y.S.F Wall, West Main Buttress

Sport Climbing? A dyno? New stuff on the West Main Buttress

Elliot P2 Christel Mushroom

Evan throwing down on Middle School, V5/6 ish, Stillwater.

Notes from Drew:

"Christel Mushroom"  is a project on Carag Dur we are currently working on. Travis Foster, Elliot Vercoe, John Mcmahon and myself put a few weeks work on it in June, establishing, cleaning and trying to free 6 of the pitches ground up finding pitches up to 5.12. We left this project at the end of June to go into the DRV, we have plans to continue Christel Mushroom over the rest of this and next season.

The shot of Travis dynoing is "Unprotected Sex" 5.11- sport. 7 bolt sport climb on the Y.S.F wall (Younger. Stronger. Fitter. Wall) of the West Buttress F.A Travis and Drew

The photo of Travis and Jamie cleaning and bolting a new new short sport multi pitch on Y.S.F Wall -unnamed project most likely 5.12. This route will be done before summer is over. Some of the coolest granite I have ever seen.

There is also a pic of John Mcmahon climbing "beautiful nightmare" 5.9 in the Cougar Den put up by Christie I think.

In the DVR (Daniel's) we had machete accidents, multi day rain storms, and eventually ran out of food, but not before we climbed 840m up the north face of Super Unknown on a route we dubbed "Dude Wall" 5.10 A3, so far with a party of 4 - Travis Foster, John Mcmahon, Elliot Vercoe, Drew Leiterman.

Bouldering Guide Available Now!!

I'm proud to finally release a bouldering guidebook for the Powell River area!!
*Note, a few minor updates added in 2019.

---  Scroll Down for Buy Now option --

Blurry jpeg export of the cover

   Though this guide was completed quite some time ago, an alternate and slightly less complete version is being included within the new published guide book by Christie Dionne "Powell River Rocks" (see previous post). I didn't want to release the guide on its own until the full project was completed. Like any guide, by the time it is published, new problems will have been established already. This version includes several harder problems that are listed in the print guide as projects, as well as more detailed information.

This is the the most recent information available on bouldering in the Powell River area, and can stand alone as a guide for those just interested in bouldering as it provides all the beta you need to get to the areas, how to plan a trip, and what to expect.

It will only be offered as a download, unless there is either enough demand or enough development to warrant publishing physical copies - maybe for the next update. For that reason, I'm offering this download at an extremely low price considering the amount of work that has gone into it.

 I respectfully ask that you do not share this guide for free after downloading. While it isn't perfect, this project took an immense amount of time. All of the information was started from scratch. If you can't afford $10, use less chalk or try drinking one less six pack a year and hopefully you'll be able to check out the guide. Enjoy, and happy sending!

Blurry jpeg export of the inside cover

DOWNLOAD POWELL RIVER BOULDERING 2018

Select Buy Now, pay securely with PayPal, and I will email you link to download a copy within a 24 - 48 hr period.

New Guidebook Has Arrived!

Buy Powell River Rocks Online

 The new guidebook has finally arrived! A version of my bouldering guide, re-worked by author Christie Dionne can be found within this printed guide. Christie has put in a ton of work collecting info for 14 different areas (including some alpine) for this guide. It's a massive improvement on the amount of info that was previously available through the last guide book printed over 15 years ago.
 

Powell River Rocks can also be purchased at Basecamp Coffee and West Coast Thick (both on Marine Avenue)

New Route Info Page!

Powell River is infamous for having a lack of information on its climbing. With a new guide book coming out soon, this page will serve as place to find updates and new route info. Like any guide book, by time it is published there will already be new routes that weren't recorded.
New route info found here! Click the link below

New Route Info Powell River

http://prclimbing.blogspot.ca/p/new-routes.html

Stunning New Route - Amon Rudh

Last season, the valley master Matt Hodgson teamed up with "young skywalker" Evan Guibalt to finish up a Stunning vision that Matt has been working on.  Though Amon is the furthest wall in the valley and has the longest approach, it likely holds the best potential for clean free climbing in the Eldred.

12 Rounds with Boo Boo, 14 Pitches, 5.11 C1


From Matt's FB:

"The latest PROUD addition to Amon Rudh!! A young sky walker & myself have added another 9 pitches onto the route 12 Rounds With Boo Boo.
You climb the first 4 pitches of 12 Rounds to the top of the sickle. You then climb 20 m up the corner crack until you see a perfect dyke traversing right for 3 m. You traverse the dyke (5.10)into the top of The Sir Prize. It conveniently brings you just above the off width. You climb the beautiful Prize corner into On The Verge, follow OTV for 4 pitches before heading out left to the Golden corners.
12 Rounds With Boo Boo
14 pitches 5.11 C1"

Crux of P4

P2

Brent Goodman FAing the Salvages in the Mist pitch

Evan styling the 3m traverse into the Sir Prize pitch

The aptly named Sir Prize pitch

Topo for Building Gondolin

Found this on my old phone - classic napkin format topo of Evan Guibault's et al's free route, Building Gondolin on Carag Dur.

Eye Candy

A video reel with some Daniels Valley easter eggs (1:45-1:50)  and the stunning crux pitch 10 of  Sacred Stone can be seen at 2:47.


Click here --- >   Wildland Media Demo Reel

FA of Another New Big Wall - Daniels Valley

Evan Guilbault and Colin Landeck put a route up in the Daniels this past summer. That's two walls climbed now, could be the beginning of something...


From Evan Guibault's FB.


"If you would have told me two weeks ago that I was about to put up a 5000ft technical rock route, I probably would have shyly smiled while my eyes scanned the horizon and gently changed the subject. This topo validates years and years of vision honed in the mythical Coast Range, my home. Sacred Stone exists; a dream that is real. 27 pitches of dream climbing. 1600 metres, 5250 ft....I'm ready for more."

"BEEEEAUUUUTIFUL BIG WALLS!!!! Young Stokemaster Colin Landeck & myself have just returned from the adventure of our lives. 11 days in literal heaven on earth...paradise; 5 days on the Big Stone; 3 days of continuous, perfect, magic flow ascending a stone no others had ever before...1600m (5250 feet) of technical rock climbing brought us to the summit of The Super Unknown, one of multiple gargantuan granite big walls in the Daniels River Valley. Thank you to all my loved ones for all your support, the power of vision cannot be underestimated, the Super Unknown goes. Climbed in 27 large pitches, Over 20 of 27 being FIVE STAR ***** Free climbing GLORY. Zero bolts were installed on this ascent, they aren't needed. Nothing in my life has ever brought me higher. The trails are built, the line is up, the stoke is high.
FA:
SACRED STONE VI 5.10 A1 1600m 
The Super Unknown
Daniels River Valley
Aug 10, 2017."

Heading towards the Amphitheatre

Bug net beta

Massive First Ascent in the Daniels Valley

Travis Foster and Drew Leiterman made the first ascent of a massive wall in the Daniels Valley recently. The wall is called Red Alert, and they named the route Jungle is Massive - 5.10 C2, 25 very long pitches.
 To say the least, this is a pretty amazing ascent.

Check out Gripped's coverage, and a write up in Powell River Living for more

info.http://gripped.com/news/massive-new-big-wall-climbed-powell-river/


http://prliving.ca/rock-climbers-make-first-ascent-massive-wall/

Powell River's Hardest Climb

  Late Bloomer - 12.C, is now the most difficult single pitch climb in PR.  

Travis Foster of Cranbrook  recently came through town and hopped on my open project at Higgy Land. Naturally, I had to link up with him, pysched to have someone to work a project with. Over a few sessions, beta was refined, stoke was high and we made some solid links getting it down to two sections.

 Travis made quick progress, and likely could have snagged the FA before me but was gracious enough to hold back and allow me to send  first. He styled the second ascent the very next session despite it being 25+ degrees out.

The route has two back to back boulder problems and is guarded by a very pumpy final crux. The movement is outstanding -  and the natural line is an obvious stand out. It's definitely got my vote for the best route in the area, and not just because it's the hardest.
 Drew Leiterman , who is in town to join an expedition to the Daniels valley, took some beautiful shots the other day you can check out below (low res versions).
 
  Travis, Drew, and Squamish crusher Stu Smith are currently off on a 6 week quest  to  attempt to climb one of the biggest unclimbed granite walls outside of Baffin Island - right in Powell River's back yard. This wall has been whispered about for years...now the word is out and it may finally see its first ascent. This could potentially put Powell River on the map as a big wall destination. Even though the Daniels valley is very isolated...it's nowhere near as isolated as somewhere like Baffin.
Stoked to catch up with them when they're back - follow Drew on instagram - Drewmagoo66 - as he's sure to have a ton of rad photos to share.

Phone photo of Travis on the first crux.

Me in the roof.

Me on the second crux.

Photo I snapped of Drew giving it a go.

New Area in the Eldred - The Sanctuary - Single Pitch Boulders

Lots of scrubbing has been going on across the river at 32 mile. Matt Hodgson discovered this area a few seasons ago, and has now put in a cable crossing. There's lots of mini single pitch cracks as well as potential for good bouldering, likely many highballs. Here's some photos of some of the lines.  So far about 20 crack lines have been discovered averaging in the 12m range. 

Matt H on Culture Shock. Cleaned by Evan and Zoe, FA by Kris Mutafov

A much longer than it looks in the photo hands traverse. Got pump?

Highball, route, or both?

Jesse Taplin Sends 3 Projects in B Branch

Jesse Taplin of Victoria visited the Eldred recently and made quick work of three open projects. The grades are from V7 to V9 ish.


Heres a video a quick power problem on the Communication boulder. Starts as for Doobie Sloth but moves right instead of left.

Video of Jesse finding the proper beta for the project on the back of the Azul boulder (which he graded around V8) can be seen here.

He also climbed the overhanging triangular boulder just up the trail (adjacent to the Tank boulder) which I had only tried a few times before abandoning due to a tweaked knee. I never thought much of it but I'm told that it climbs as good as any top 100 Squamish problem and is in the V7 range.

Updates will be published in the final bouldering guide - which I'll upload for sale online.

New Moderate Route on Carag Dur - Building Gondolin 5.11a

Evan Guilbault and crew have managed to push a route to the top of Carag Dur on the far right of the wall. Being on the far right the elevation is much lower, this route tallies up to only 5 pitches which will make for a great casual day out. 
 The first pitch was put up many years ago but had since grown over (along with a few other pitches in the vicinity). It's great to see this revival and hopefully it will open up the possibility of more routes on either side. 
Though Christie Dionne is working on a free route on the far left of the wall, for now this is the only route to summit Carag Dur since a young Matt Maddaloni aided straight up the middle of the wall with a friend back in '99!

From Evan's Facebook:

Eleven months later, and one more project is ticked. Thanks to everyone who helped out with this one. Colin Landeck, Evan Porter-Lockhart, Zoe Manson, Max Merkin, & Travis Foster and to the OG's who came before us.

BUILDING GONDOLIN II 5.11a, 5 pitches, 240m, FA: June 12, 2017

2nd route on Caragdur to summit ground up, first since 1999! THE line for any 10+/11- trad climber in The Valley looking for those sweet sweet splitter cracks. Easy approach, incredible varied climbing, cracks, dihedrals, pumpy, stacked and ready to go.

---------------------------------------

Route info can be found here:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/building-gondol…/112076968

Approach time 45 minutes, follow the carag dur trail to the wall and just keep going right until you see it. Hard to miss the first pitch as it's the obviously cleaned splitter.

As of now it still needs some cleaning, specifically the final 5.9 pitch. A topo will be posted on the sign board in camp when available.

This is sure to be a classic and will hopefully get a lot of traffic.

Much Scrubbing

Last season, Evan Guibalt, Zoe Manson and crew have been taking the valley by storm, cleaning new boulders, new routes, discovering entirely new walls, retro scrubbing classic multi pitch, linking big alpine ridge traverses, and getting in on some clean alpine trad action. Much more to come from this super psyched crew of youngsters.

Zoe cranking some perfect alpine granite in the Emerald valley. One valley over, accessed via the Emma Lake hut. A committing approach, multi day outing, but is sure to be a top notch adventure zone awaiting many FAs. 

A clean as can be highball (or will it be a route?) on the Carag Dur side of the Eldred river. 

Eldred Valley Bouldering Guide Download

 Here's a treat for the new year. I'm very psyched to bring you A PDF excerpt of the Eldred section from the upcoming guide book. I'll release the Stillwater section when I can- and now that I've been able to connect with local stone master Rob Richards, who is pretty much a walking guide book when his memory is jogged, many of the original names and history of the area can finally be included.

 It may not look like much, but this took far more time and effort than you might think. Starting a guide from scratch means a lot of things. It means hiking around and drawing maps (which are refined over and over), taking photos, lots and lots of editing, learning to use an open-source publishing soft-ware because I can't afford to pay for one, taking the time to seek out the history of the area and not rushing things (more will be included in the full guide), and of course, scrubbing and climbing everything. I have scrubbed and or climbed every single problem in this guide, and that of course was the best part of all.

 It would mean a lot if you could donate any amount to the cause - it will either go towards bolts for routes, gear for trail work, or publishing costs for a completed guide.

The except can be downloaded here - Eldred Valley Bouldering - Excerpt 

Donations can be made with the donation tab on the right side-bar.  In person beers are welcomed, especially if I see you in the valley.

Low quality sneak peaks at the cover and back-cover:
                     

A mini online version can be seen here (not as updated as the full link)
Mini Online Version by Christie Dionne

Enjoy!!

BIG news! New Eldred Valley Information Website

Local pioneer Christie Dionne has just published a website with all current route and area info on the Eldred Valley! I also just sent her all the info I have on bouldering in the valley and it will be added shortly. This is a huge step forward in Valley development. I have also heard that the paper guide book (which will be combined with my bouldering guide) should be ready by next season....though of course it's a huge project, so please don't quote me on any actual time line :).

 I've also recently been able to connect with one of the original climbers in Powell River, Robert Richards (who along with Colin Dionne made the first ascent of the West Main Wall). Rob is literally a walking encyclopedia on every square inch of rock ever climbed in the original days of development. With Rob's help I'll finally be able to add the history of bouldering in the area, and add names to problems that were previously climbed to give credit where its due. Things are really moving forward with getting information on the area, and with the climbing gym co-op opening this winter, I really feel like next season is going to be a big one!

View the website here:  http://powellriverrock.wixsite.com/cadmc

First Ascent of Stillwater Project

On his way back to the ferry, despite days of rain, Tyler Thompson managed to snag the first ascent of the project he had tried earlier on the main boulder in the Bulldozer cluster in Stillwater.

This problem is to the right of The Leprechaun's Wand on the overhanging face - though still a contender for hardest problem in the area as it has yet to see a repeat, they are very different styles. TLW being very technical, this new problem is one huge power move, to a very committing final move.

To start, there is a low right hand undercling, and a left hand on the sloping arete. Smear a foot and gun for the only obvious hold.

He named it Bump Up the Jam, and suggested a grade of V8/9.

Tyler recently sent Black Hole (V11) in Squamish, known for a notoriously hard bump to a tiny crimp - yet said this send involved one of the hardest single moves he's done in a while.

Here's a video!
Bump Up The Jam, V8/9, First Ascent

Video of some B Branch Boulders

A friend from Vancouver was recently in town, and despite only a few hours spent in the valley, in the rain, he managed to make some sends, including one FA, and work a few projects before the conditions became too wet.

The problems are:

FA of a V7 variation to Inverted Academics(V6)  (*Update, the V7 is now called Nameless Nirvana), instead of going straight up from the crimps, bump right to the good hold, bear down on a tiny left hand crimp, control the swing, and lock off to pull through to the lip. Super fun gymnastic problem!  (Warning: the jug that you leg bar off of is flexing, use caution)

Working the Ataraxia project (my guess is around V9)

Attempt to link  'Cheater' (V2) into the classic The Revival (V4)

A quick send of The Dark Crystal (V4)

 Most problems stayed dry despite a heavy overnight rain and off and on rain throughout the whole day.

Video of a classic and a project, Stillwater

Tyler Thompson doing a lap on the classic V2 highball, The Blade, Bulldozer Boulders, Stillwater.
Plus a quick clip of an attempt at a project up the steeper right face.
Please excuse the poor filming, It's my first day.