Evan Guilbault and crew have managed to push a route to the top of Carag Dur on the far right of the wall. Being on the far right the elevation is much lower, this route tallies up to only 5 pitches which will make for a great casual day out.
The first pitch was put up many years ago but had since grown over (along with a few other pitches in the vicinity). It's great to see this revival and hopefully it will open up the possibility of more routes on either side.
Though Christie Dionne is working on a free route on the far left of the wall, for now this is the only route to summit Carag Dur since a young Matt Maddaloni aided straight up the middle of the wall with a friend back in '99!
From Evan's Facebook:
BUILDING GONDOLIN II 5.11a, 5 pitches, 240m, FA: June 12, 2017
2nd route on Caragdur to summit
ground up, first since 1999! THE line for any 10+/11- trad climber in The
Valley looking for those sweet sweet splitter cracks. Easy approach, incredible
varied climbing, cracks, dihedrals, pumpy, stacked and ready to go.
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Route info can be found here:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/building-gondol…/112076968
Approach time 45 minutes, follow the carag dur trail to the wall and just keep going right until you see it. Hard to miss the first pitch as it's the obviously cleaned splitter.
As of now it still
needs some cleaning, specifically the final 5.9 pitch. A topo will be posted on the sign board in camp when available.
This is sure to be a classic and will hopefully get a lot of traffic.