Wednesday, 31 August 2016

First Ascent of Stillwater Project

On his way back to the ferry, despite days of rain, Tyler Thompson managed to snag the first ascent of the project he had tried earlier on the main boulder in the Bulldozer cluster in Stillwater.

This problem is to the right of The Leprechaun's Wand on the overhanging face - though still a contender for hardest problem in the area as it has yet to see a repeat, they are very different styles. TLW being very technical, this new problem is one huge power move, to a very committing final move.

To start, there is a low right hand undercling, and a left hand on the sloping arete. Smear a foot and gun for the only obvious hold.

He named it Bump Up the Jam, and suggested a grade of V8/9.

Tyler recently sent Black Hole (V11) in Squamish, known for a notoriously hard bump to a tiny crimp - yet said this send involved one of the hardest single moves he's done in a while.

Here's a video!
Bump Up The Jam, V8/9, First Ascent

Monday, 29 August 2016

Video of some B Branch Boulders

A friend from Vancouver was recently in town, and despite only a few hours spent in the valley, in the rain, he managed to make some sends, including one FA, and work a few projects before the conditions became too wet.

The problems are:

FA of a V7 variation to Inverted Academics(V6)  (*Update, the V7 is now called Nameless Nirvana), instead of going straight up from the crimps, bump right to the good hold, bear down on a tiny left hand crimp, control the swing, and lock off to pull through to the lip. Super fun gymnastic problem!  (Warning: the jug that you leg bar off of is flexing, use caution)

Working the Ataraxia project (my guess is around V9)

Attempt to link  'Cheater' (V2) into the classic The Revival (V4)

A quick send of The Dark Crystal (V4)

 Most problems stayed dry despite a heavy overnight rain and off and on rain throughout the whole day.

Saturday, 27 August 2016

Video of a classic and a project, Stillwater

Tyler Thompson doing a lap on the classic V2 highball, The Blade, Bulldozer Boulders, Stillwater.
Plus a quick clip of an attempt at a project up the steeper right face.
Please excuse the poor filming, It's my first day.

Just some pretty pics

View from top of moss mountain, just outside the bulldozer boulders. Stillwater

Anna on Appetite for Destruction 5.10 Higgy Land

New Problems in B branch

On a recent trip up the valley we bumped into two French climbers, currently calling Revelstoke home. They were very stoked to explore the area, and in only a few short hours we added 3 new problems, one project, and I eyed up another yet to be scrubbed.
 All new problems are right next to the parking, to the left of the Communication Eater boulder (see map and mini guide posted on the bulletin board in camp, and the binder I left in the out house), new problems not added yet.
 Anthony put up a V3 ish slab just left of the V1 on Communication eater.
 All other new problems are on the same boulder, it's visibly obvious, directly behind communication eater, so as soon as you walk in and look left you'll see Rain Away and Azule's arete.

Anthony on a new V3 I put up after a team effort, RainAway. To the right on the same boulder is a quality arete we put up, now named after Anthony's dog, 'Azule's Arete' - V2. 
Trying all kinds of beta on the project. This didn't quite work, but it lead to figuring out the sequence.

Me testing out my hamstring on the project, about to hit the crux swing to get around the corner - unfortunately my leg wasn't quite ready for this yet.

Anthony searching for holds.

New Routing on Carag Dur

I haven't been posting much this season due to working on opening a not for profit climbing gym co-op (which takes up 90% of my free time) -  Please feel free to support the project and find out info here -

In other news, a crew has been living in the Eldred over the season. Here's a peak at a route they've put up. Topo should be available in the camp site by now on the bulletin board.

 From Evan Guilbalt's FB post:

"Pitch 1 of "Building Gondolin" New Route using parts of Afternoon Delight going up the right side of Carag-Dur. 4-5 pitches of sustained 5.10 crack climbing...More info to come. Lots of new routing going on in The Valley."
Pitch 1 
 Though at least this pitch is actually an old route, it was long abandoned about 10 years ago. It had been recleaned about 4 years ago, but not beyond the original two pitches and had since grown over again. There were  two adjacent lines (one up the splitter and one to the right of the flake) to the same anchor. However, now, this is a 4 pitch line, and it appears that the obvious crack is what was re-cleaned. 
 To get to it, hike the carag dur trail to the top and walk right along the base of the wall. You can't miss it.