Thursday, 20 June 2013

New route going up, and a project going down.

Despite a whole lot of rain over the last few weeks, plenty of climbing has been going on in the area. For starters, here's a video of Matt H sending the John Galt project that was worked on back in 2008, which you can read about here. Matt and I worked the problem last trip up the valley, and he unlocked the beta just before the rain hit. 

New Problem:

First ascent!
Problem: Inverted Academics   Grade: V6 (unconfirmed)   -   Thanks to Anna for the video!

How cool is that massive leg hook? The micro crimps above it would be pretty much useless without such a solid set up.

New Route:
In other news, over the last couple of days I've been working on a new line immediately left of Major Attitude, in the Gappage zone at HiggyLand. The line follows the obvious arĂȘte, until it tops out on a ledge just below the end of Major Attitude.

Just passed 3/4 way up the line,  instead of following the arĂȘte you can go straight up the face to  finish on Major Attitude, and avoid the tricky ending of the new route. Luckily, this slightly easier finish in no way compromises the style of the route, as you still have to turn the final roof of Major Attitude. Both possible finishes are steep and bouldery. 

Grade wise, I'm thinking around 11c, but I'm terrible at grading anything, so who knows.
Hopefully I'll have a chance to bolt it soon, and maybe even get a photo up!

Speaking of photos, here's a random one of Mika sending Prince, before the power lines went in.

Open Boulder Surgery

And here's me cleaning a project in B Branch. Yes - that is a surgical mask that I'm does wonders to keep the rock dust and mildew out of your lungs.

Sunday, 2 June 2013

New Powell River Sport Climbing Crag - On The Fritz

 A few years ago, a new sport climbing crag in the Powell River area was discovered. One bay passed Higgy Land is 3 Mile Bay,which contains an over hanging calcite streaked basalt wall very similar to The Frayed End at Higgy Land.

  One bolted route is up, and there are TR anchors on another. I just ordered a whole bunch of bolts, hangers, and anchors from MEC, and can't wait for them to arrive so I can start putting up routes. The climbing looks like it will be mostly in the moderate to slightly difficult range.

I've been there after days of rain, and even during rain, due to the angle of the wall it stays remarkably dry. This is a huge positive considering how much rain we get here. (Same numbers of days with rain as Squamish)

A heads up for anyone going there to explore - there were lots of cougar droppings above the crag, so be aware. It's isolated there, and the only person within ear shot is an older fella named Fritz who lives in his floating shack. He's apparently quite the character, and currently the trail goes right through his junk pile, but he has no objections to climbers coming around. Also, since it's further in the bush, the bugs can get pretty heavy.

Smaller wall at 'Mid Fritz' above the main wall, below the big wall.
 To get there, drive to the end of Sutherland road and make a right when it turns into dirt. There is part of the Sunshine Coast Trail there, so you will see a very obvious trail wide enough to get a good truck down. If you can't drive in, park here and it is about a 10-15 minute walk in.

 Follow the trail for some time until you are able to see the lake, and make a left at the very last fork (if you go straight at this point, you will very shortly be at a beachy area at the lake, Turn around if you hit this area.). If you properly hit the left trail, it will bring you to an old tarp and some junk, the trail to On The Fritz is behind this, and will lead to Fritz' cabin. Just keep following the trail and the crag will be obvious.

 I'm told there's also a very large crag above the main wall with the potential for multi-pitch routes, which I could see the top of but never made the trek through the bush to find the base of.